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What do you hate most about rock gyms?
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By Kyle Freeman
From Oakland, CA
Feb 7, 2010
First 14er

+1 Rafe...but it's not worth it!! The good outweighs the bad, trust me.


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By Superclimber
Feb 7, 2010

I hate the fat chick at my gym that walks around with a laser pointer spraying beta!


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By Tevis Blom
Feb 7, 2010

Children: being allowed to run underneath 200 lb. people bouldering (staff fails to do their job at control and safety)
Side Note: the spot has a whole vert wall perfect for young beginners, but they prefer to clog up the steeper boulders. The BRC has a whole upstairs area just for children, but their staff prefers to let them run underneath climbers in the lower area.

Attitude: I may suck at climbing, but I have been climbing since many of today's up and comers were still pissing their beds at night. Ditch the ego and "too cool" attitude... climbing is fun, not a competition.
Also, old guys cutting in line on routes "well are you tied in?" "No, but the guy I just lowered still is" get some patience and wait your turn. The older guys doing this are worse than the children (grow up man child!).

Famous/expert climbers: Sorry, but (most of)you are all a bunch of self absorbed dicks. Anyone can have fun climbing, even on 5.5. (re: tape comment above(koreo), I may suck at climbing, but arthritic joints suck too, and unfortunately I tape up many joints just to avoid injury on 5.10s. Why do you care how much someone tapes up? does it affect you? although I tend to agree with the comment about Prana gear.) Call it "classism for climbers", call it what you will, but it is basically high school bull shit for adults.

Anyone too cool to acknowledge when they have been addressed: If you really are world class, and some gumby(I.e. me) says "holy shit that was sweet" regarding the 1 finger campus deadpoint to a sloper move you just did, just say "thanks". Ignoring a compliment just makes you look like a dick. Said gumby already understands that he belongs to a different realm, just be glad that you are in a way "a hero" of the sport. Be a steward of the sport, be welcoming to people who aren't as good as you.

On a good note, climbing in the gym when it is empty on a rainy or snowy day is great.

Enough venting, the worst thing is that after 17 years of climbing... still haven't ticked 5.12 even on plastic :( boo hoo


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By Steve Powell
From Alhambra, California
Feb 7, 2010

1)the lack of consistentcy in route setting.
2)the fact that most route setters, and gym employees, have never climbed outside
3)the fact, that as a trad climber, gym climbing in no way, shape, or form resembles climbing in the Valley, Jtree, or Indian Creek.


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By Bad Sock Puppet
Feb 7, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet

Where do I even begin???

-I hate the smell

-I hate the kids and students that clog the gym forcing all the legit climbers to congregate under the lead wall or in a small corner of the boulder area.

-I hate that only one of the staff actually climbs but that he's a total gym rat.

-I hate it when the entire lead wall is cramped with climbers but nobody's climbing a 5.12

-I hate it when I get harassed by staff when I almost hit the ground while botching a clip and fall 15 feet. "OMG that was absolutely reckless, no one should fall 15ft" Are you f@%*ing kidding me!!!

-I hate it when people spray beta about a climb they worked for 3 months to send. I don't work routes in the gym! I go to get my ass kicked hard.

-I hate trying to climb while Elton John is blaring over the speakers

-I hate it when I'm trying to make a clip in the middle of a crux sequence even though you just made a clip 2 feet before that and 2 feet before that and so on cause the rules say clip every draw!

-And I especially hate the fact that I need the gym for 4 months out of the year.

-I like the gym cause I can get on routes as hard as I want and bail at any minute. And I like that when it's dark after work I can still climb that day.

Rock gyms are just a necessary evil!


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By Boodge Nomchompski
Feb 13, 2010
Ancient wall art

I super-hate the ongoing sandbagging....moreso because it's not consistent. I don't give a rat's ass about sending in the gym, but I go for the workout, and I'd like to know that what I'm getting on is even close to what it's rated. I know that outside I redpoint about 12a/b sport, but in my gym I'm somewhere between 5.9- and 12a. Depends on the setter and his mood that day. Last night I sent a 12a, then couldn't do a 9-. I just wanna know if my planned warm-ups are going to be warm-ups or fuck-me-pump-ups.


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By Michele White
Feb 13, 2010

I hate that the closest one is a mini-gym in the back of an outdoors store an hour away and that the next closest one is 4 hrs away... I'll take routes that are never changed, slick holds, unsupervised kids, staff who can't climb, and climbers who spew beta while climbing poorly with their shirts & shoes off and all their appendages taped if y'all will just open a big climbing gym on the coast in Alabama :) But that said, I'm thankful for our little indoor climbing wall an hour away and airplanes to take me to real rocks all around the country!


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By Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Feb 13, 2010

I personally like the gym. What I have a problem with are folks who think that most gym climbers never climb outside. Or maybe they only clip bolts. OMG! It make one wonder who the real "plastic people are". If you grew up climbing before gyms, maybe they are appreciated more! :)


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By M Lindfors
From Highlands Ranch
Feb 14, 2010

As the non climbing belay slave and taxi for my climber kids I have to say that as in the world at large it is up to the parent to teach the rug rats some manners. My kids had to do push ups and other PT for every infraction at our rec center gym. Also those guys got my kids started on outside climbing (made me quit smoking because of the approaches) which I enjoy as much as them. Climbing inside is fun as long as it is not the only thing you do. (depends on geographic location) I do hate obnoxious college students trying to impress some chicks by climbing a 5.7 on lead and taking whippers. And people hating on my kids without seeing them climb or anything( my daughter climbs 10's outside and my son climbs 12's outside if that makes any difference)


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By mike c
From nederland
Feb 14, 2010
keeping it cool

currently the thing i hate most besides bad music is the contrived boulder problem rating method......instead of the tried and true v-rating v-0,v-1,v-2,v-3, etc...they use recreational,intermediate, advanced, and open...too much range and just plain lazy....go ahead show up at the gunks and use that scale and people will look at you the way i look at the gym rats....oh and did i mention its a tad on the spendy side....not all climbers make physicians wages, some of us just scrape by.i do like looking through all the old climbing magazines while making a futile effort at resting. going to the gym can make you stronger physically and a little technically savvy, but as far as mentally stronger on real climbs i think gyms totally miss the mark. when i go outside to climb clip ups and witness some ripped sport climber campus through 13c/d moves like its 5.2, i'm not really impressed .the climbing may be hard but leaves little mental challenge so far as risk and adventure. i pay out much more respect to the climber who steps out into the unknown, micro cam or stopper protected 5.10 runout.....that is real adventure, real risk. real climbing isn't bolt protection every 3.3 feet, rap bolted, minimum risk, complacent, and easy. its shaky ,scary , but- puckering, scant of decent pro, cold, sometimes remote, and committing, etc. i guess we all have to start somewhere.


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By Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Feb 14, 2010

The bad:
1) People thinking that their gym is the best. Your gym sucks just as much as mine does...
2) Shitty soft rock radio stations.
3) Not being able to take my shirt off in the summer (it's Phoenix and there is no a/c).
4) People that get their ego stroked off of over inflated ratings.
5) The cloud of chalk dust that rivals LA's haze.
6) Clipping bolts every move on lead.

The good:
1) The constant stream of cute girls from the local college campus.
2) Not having to find the down climb with a head lamp when it's dark outside.
3) There no rangers that hate climbers.


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By sberk4
From concord, MA
Feb 14, 2010

The Boodge wrote:
I don't give a rat's ass about sending in the gym, but I go for the workout, and I'd like to know that what I'm getting on is even close to what it's rated. I know that outside I redpoint about 12a/b sport, but in my gym I'm somewhere between 5.9- and 12a. Depends on the setter and his mood that day. Last night I sent a 12a, then couldn't do a 9-. I just wanna know if my planned warm-ups are going to be warm-ups or fuck-me-pump-ups.


This is a problem at my gym too. The routes are fine (though they're set with someone who's 5'6" in mind, so being 6' tall I can bypass a lot of the moves), but the bouldering is really screwed up. There are V3's that would easily get V3 outside, but almost everything <V2 is super easy jug hauling. Kind of annoying if you're a new climber, but not a huge deal overall.

The smell is probably the main thing I dislike. Also slimy/polished holds. The real problem with gyms though isn't any of these things--it's that the routes aren't set to train you for climbing outside. They're set to climb "fun," so the moves aren't consistent to what you'd find in any area outside. I like So Ill holds as much as the next guy for having fun during comps, but there's a real dearth of crimps and incuts, which is really the vast majority of the holds on real rock.


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Feb 14, 2010
Half Dome

I just HATE the hot girls in incredible tiny bits of clothing constantly forcing me out of my zone. Every time I'm about to send my taped, plastic project some uber hottie has just finished warming up and pulls off the sweatshirt to reveal what I SHOULD be spending my time holding onto.

I'm married, I'm unavailable, you are too young, and I'm hard core training...c'mon just let me live for once!


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Feb 14, 2010

Anyone notice that you could replace tape with dogs and this conversation could be about your favorite local sport crag.....


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 15, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Kevin, Paul, ++ !! I loathe somebody's dog sitting on my gear, but not near as much as having to drool over tight young bodies who won't talk to you at all on the gym walls. That truly sucks.( old and single with beer gut also leaves me out of contention)


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 15, 2010
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

that rock gyms arent rock.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2010
Lone goat..

The wife and I went to the gym yesterday afternoon and it was friggin great. I'm finally starting to feel strong again. Gyms are a little spendy, but boy can you get honed.


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By duh
Feb 15, 2010

Hank Caylor wrote:
Sorry "duh", but because of your username, I just can't oblige you on this one. Is your real name Gern Blanston or something?


heh... at least you're funnier than clamhed. Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2010
Lone goat..

duh wrote:
Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.


I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee!

Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Feb 15, 2010

Careful duh... lots of boulder boys in here to cup the hankster's balls.

My biggest gym beef is slimy holds.

One of the funniest things at the gym is college night, where either the frat boys or the kids on climbing dates are there.


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By duh
Feb 15, 2010

Hank Caylor wrote:
I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee! Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!


hummm, more spray?

Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2010
Lone goat..

duh wrote:
hummm, more spray? Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.


C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.


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By kevin murphy
From Lafayette, Colorado
Feb 15, 2010
road

Looks like Hanky has a FanBoy. CAUTION: If Duh stays anonymous, usually means he/she has alife size picture of you in his closet and pulls the old "Crying Game" in front of it. Fanboys at first will attack quite aggressively, but eventually tire themselves out, the scary part is duh is probably someone you know, with tiny little balls.


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By duh
Feb 15, 2010

caughtinside wrote:
Careful duh... lots of boulder boys in here to cup the hankster's balls. My biggest gym beef is slimy holds. One of the funniest things at the gym is college night, where either the frat boys or the kids on climbing dates are there.


Yea I know, I fully expect the ball cupppers to show up next, to rescue the Hankster. Still, when every other post is dropping a name or telling me how bitchin they were way back when.... I just had to say something.


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By duh
Feb 15, 2010

Hank Caylor wrote:
C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.


You edited your post?

I'm sorry, but that's just weke.


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