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What do you hate most about rock gyms?
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Feb 7, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
Where do I even begin???

-I hate the smell

-I hate the kids and students that clog the gym forcing all the legit climbers to congregate under the lead wall or in a small corner of the boulder area.

-I hate that only one of the staff actually climbs but that he's a total gym rat.

-I hate it when the entire lead wall is cramped with climbers but nobody's climbing a 5.12

-I hate it when I get harassed by staff when I almost hit the ground while botching a clip and fall 15 feet. "OMG that was absolutely reckless, no one should fall 15ft" Are you f@%*ing kidding me!!!

-I hate it when people spray beta about a climb they worked for 3 months to send. I don't work routes in the gym! I go to get my ass kicked hard.

-I hate trying to climb while Elton John is blaring over the speakers

-I hate it when I'm trying to make a clip in the middle of a crux sequence even though you just made a clip 2 feet before that and 2 feet before that and so on cause the rules say clip every draw!

-And I especially hate the fact that I need the gym for 4 months out of the year.

-I like the gym cause I can get on routes as hard as I want and bail at any minute. And I like that when it's dark after work I can still climb that day.

Rock gyms are just a necessary evil!
Bad Sock Puppet
Joined Jun 22, 2008
595 points
Feb 13, 2010
Ancient wall art
I super-hate the ongoing sandbagging....moreso because it's not consistent. I don't give a rat's ass about sending in the gym, but I go for the workout, and I'd like to know that what I'm getting on is even close to what it's rated. I know that outside I redpoint about 12a/b sport, but in my gym I'm somewhere between 5.9- and 12a. Depends on the setter and his mood that day. Last night I sent a 12a, then couldn't do a 9-. I just wanna know if my planned warm-ups are going to be warm-ups or fuck-me-pump-ups. Boodge Nomchompski
Joined Apr 30, 2007
579 points
Feb 13, 2010
I hate that the closest one is a mini-gym in the back of an outdoors store an hour away and that the next closest one is 4 hrs away... I'll take routes that are never changed, slick holds, unsupervised kids, staff who can't climb, and climbers who spew beta while climbing poorly with their shirts & shoes off and all their appendages taped if y'all will just open a big climbing gym on the coast in Alabama :) But that said, I'm thankful for our little indoor climbing wall an hour away and airplanes to take me to real rocks all around the country! Michele White
Joined Feb 10, 2010
0 points
Feb 13, 2010
I personally like the gym. What I have a problem with are folks who think that most gym climbers never climb outside. Or maybe they only clip bolts. OMG! It make one wonder who the real "plastic people are". If you grew up climbing before gyms, maybe they are appreciated more! :) Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Feb 14, 2010
As the non climbing belay slave and taxi for my climber kids I have to say that as in the world at large it is up to the parent to teach the rug rats some manners. My kids had to do push ups and other PT for every infraction at our rec center gym. Also those guys got my kids started on outside climbing (made me quit smoking because of the approaches) which I enjoy as much as them. Climbing inside is fun as long as it is not the only thing you do. (depends on geographic location) I do hate obnoxious college students trying to impress some chicks by climbing a 5.7 on lead and taking whippers. And people hating on my kids without seeing them climb or anything( my daughter climbs 10's outside and my son climbs 12's outside if that makes any difference) M Lindfors
From Highlands Ranch
Joined Apr 17, 2006
59 points
Feb 14, 2010
spectre man
currently the thing i hate most besides bad music is the contrived boulder problem rating method......instead of the tried and true v-rating v-0,v-1,v-2,v-3, etc...they use recreational,intermediate, advanced, and open...too much range and just plain lazy....go ahead show up at the gunks and use that scale and people will look at you the way i look at the gym rats....oh and did i mention its a tad on the spendy side....not all climbers make physicians wages, some of us just scrape by.i do like looking through all the old climbing magazines while making a futile effort at resting. going to the gym can make you stronger physically and a little technically savvy, but as far as mentally stronger on real climbs i think gyms totally miss the mark. when i go outside to climb clip ups and witness some ripped sport climber campus through 13c/d moves like its 5.2, i'm not really impressed .the climbing may be hard but leaves little mental challenge so far as risk and adventure. i pay out much more respect to the climber who steps out into the unknown, micro cam or stopper protected 5.10 runout.....that is real adventure, real risk. real climbing isn't bolt protection every 3.3 feet, rap bolted, minimum risk, complacent, and easy. its shaky ,scary , but- puckering, scant of decent pro, cold, sometimes remote, and committing, etc. i guess we all have to start somewhere. mike c
From nederland
Joined Jan 19, 2006
837 points
Feb 14, 2010
The bad:
1) People thinking that their gym is the best. Your gym sucks just as much as mine does...
2) Shitty soft rock radio stations.
3) Not being able to take my shirt off in the summer (it's Phoenix and there is no a/c).
4) People that get their ego stroked off of over inflated ratings.
5) The cloud of chalk dust that rivals LA's haze.
6) Clipping bolts every move on lead.

The good:
1) The constant stream of cute girls from the local college campus.
2) Not having to find the down climb with a head lamp when it's dark outside.
3) There no rangers that hate climbers.
Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Aug 13, 2009
1,012 points
Feb 14, 2010
The Boodge wrote:
I don't give a rat's ass about sending in the gym, but I go for the workout, and I'd like to know that what I'm getting on is even close to what it's rated. I know that outside I redpoint about 12a/b sport, but in my gym I'm somewhere between 5.9- and 12a. Depends on the setter and his mood that day. Last night I sent a 12a, then couldn't do a 9-. I just wanna know if my planned warm-ups are going to be warm-ups or fuck-me-pump-ups.


This is a problem at my gym too. The routes are fine (though they're set with someone who's 5'6" in mind, so being 6' tall I can bypass a lot of the moves), but the bouldering is really screwed up. There are V3's that would easily get V3 outside, but almost everything <V2 is super easy jug hauling. Kind of annoying if you're a new climber, but not a huge deal overall.

The smell is probably the main thing I dislike. Also slimy/polished holds. The real problem with gyms though isn't any of these things--it's that the routes aren't set to train you for climbing outside. They're set to climb "fun," so the moves aren't consistent to what you'd find in any area outside. I like So Ill holds as much as the next guy for having fun during comps, but there's a real dearth of crimps and incuts, which is really the vast majority of the holds on real rock.
sberk4
From concord, MA
Joined Sep 11, 2009
0 points
Feb 14, 2010
Half Dome
I just HATE the hot girls in incredible tiny bits of clothing constantly forcing me out of my zone. Every time I'm about to send my taped, plastic project some uber hottie has just finished warming up and pulls off the sweatshirt to reveal what I SHOULD be spending my time holding onto.

I'm married, I'm unavailable, you are too young, and I'm hard core training...c'mon just let me live for once!
Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
352 points
Feb 14, 2010
Anyone notice that you could replace tape with dogs and this conversation could be about your favorite local sport crag..... Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2002
646 points
Feb 15, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Kevin, Paul, ++ !! I loathe somebody's dog sitting on my gear, but not near as much as having to drool over tight young bodies who won't talk to you at all on the gym walls. That truly sucks.( old and single with beer gut also leaves me out of contention) Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Feb 15, 2010
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
that rock gyms arent rock. Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,757 points
Administrator
Feb 15, 2010
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
The wife and I went to the gym yesterday afternoon and it was friggin great. I'm finally starting to feel strong again. Gyms are a little spendy, but boy can you get honed. Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
Feb 15, 2010
Hank Caylor wrote:
Sorry "duh", but because of your username, I just can't oblige you on this one. Is your real name Gern Blanston or something?


heh... at least you're funnier than clamhed. Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.
duh
Joined Dec 27, 2006
1,692 points
Administrator
Feb 15, 2010
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
duh wrote:
Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.


I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee!

Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
Feb 15, 2010
Careful duh... lots of boulder boys in here to cup the hankster's balls.

My biggest gym beef is slimy holds.

One of the funniest things at the gym is college night, where either the frat boys or the kids on climbing dates are there.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,895 points
Feb 15, 2010
Hank Caylor wrote:
I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee! Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!


hummm, more spray?

Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.
duh
Joined Dec 27, 2006
1,692 points
Administrator
Feb 15, 2010
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
duh wrote:
hummm, more spray? Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.


C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
Feb 15, 2010
road
Looks like Hanky has a FanBoy. CAUTION: If Duh stays anonymous, usually means he/she has alife size picture of you in his closet and pulls the old "Crying Game" in front of it. Fanboys at first will attack quite aggressively, but eventually tire themselves out, the scary part is duh is probably someone you know, with tiny little balls. kevin murphy
From Lafayette, Colorado
Joined Feb 15, 2005
379 points
Feb 15, 2010
caughtinside wrote:
Careful duh... lots of boulder boys in here to cup the hankster's balls. My biggest gym beef is slimy holds. One of the funniest things at the gym is college night, where either the frat boys or the kids on climbing dates are there.


Yea I know, I fully expect the ball cupppers to show up next, to rescue the Hankster. Still, when every other post is dropping a name or telling me how bitchin they were way back when.... I just had to say something.
duh
Joined Dec 27, 2006
1,692 points
Feb 15, 2010
Hank Caylor wrote:
C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.


You edited your post?

I'm sorry, but that's just weke.
duh
Joined Dec 27, 2006
1,692 points
Feb 15, 2010
Ibex
What gyms are good for solves the problem the guy in another thread has with drinking and climbing....nothing better than turning an otherwise potentially boring night pulling on plastic into a party with a Nalgene of PBR and some good friends. Hoff
From Las Vegas
Joined May 23, 2008
51 points
Feb 15, 2010
not climbing
MountainMan wrote:
a Nalgene of PBR

mmmmmm BPA-PBR
Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,836 points
Feb 16, 2010
Ibex
Mark Roth wrote:
mmmmmm BPA-PBR


Hey, it's 3.2 here......adds a little kick.
Hoff
From Las Vegas
Joined May 23, 2008
51 points
Feb 16, 2010
MountainMan wrote:
Hey, it's 3.2 here......adds a little kick.


It's 3.2 there too.
Price
From SLC, UT
Joined Apr 29, 2007
324 points


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