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What do you hate most about rock gyms?
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Feb 5, 2010
Pure bliss..
I get lost with all the similar colored tape. It seems like they could put a light green tape and a darker green tape route farther apart. When I was younger, I was a tape MASTER! Now I'm not.

P.S.- Busted my middle knuckle(it's sorta purple and fat) last night. Oh yeah, I got big timed by Tony Bubb at the gym last night as well. Payback is a bitch.....hehheh..
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
589 points
Feb 5, 2010
TP in SLC wrote:
Momentum here in SLC rules! All the same colored holds for each route. It makes for good climbing if you got a short attention span.

I agree, Tyler. Except for when two similar colors are set side by side.

I love Momentum, but have one major complaint: they really need to clean the cracks. I know several people who have gotten infections after climbing the cracks there, one was hospitalized last year.
kBobby
From Spokane, WA
Joined Oct 5, 2001
1,373 points
Feb 5, 2010
I find them lacking in that outdoors aspect. J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
301 points
Feb 5, 2010
Axes glistening in the sun
Gym Rats, epsecially those have take there shirts off.
some people who work at gyms and think because they do they know everything there is to know about climbing. Also those that only climb in gyms and think they are god's gift to climbing cause they can climb "5.12" in a gym!
tape. I trad climb so I will put my hands and feet whatever feels comfortable.

  • **I used to work in a gym.. and had people whom I only taught how to tie in and belay show up at the Gunks the following weekend with brand new gear asking if they could climb with or near me!! HELL NO!!!!
"H"
From Manitou Springs
Joined Feb 13, 2006
59 points
Feb 5, 2010
Crux Move
Waiting for a rope when there are people top-roping and their lead rope is lying on the ground next to them for half an hour.

Also waiting for a rope when there are ropes lying on the ground with no one using them. Movement seems especially bad about this. Last night we waited half an hour for the staff to determine that "Jared" wasn't going to grab his rope when they called his name 3 times.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Feb 5, 2010
  • Beta givers. It's one thing to tell me it's a good climb, it's another to tell me how to do all the moves.
  • Routes with tapes under foot holds instead of above them. I just don't get it, do the setter never looked down to see if the tape is visible?
  • Monthly membership is expensive. Price of convenience I guess.
  • Inconsistent grades. Setters need to have other people to check the routes before giving grades.
  • Kids without or bad parental supervision.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
Feb 5, 2010
NO BEER!!! what's bouldering if you can't enjoy an nice "athletic" beverage such as Coor's banquet, Ham's Premium, or PBR (the good old pabst smear). I also can't get over the grimyness of all the holds. but as an added benefit the climbing wall on campus shares a room with the cardio machines, Mmm Mmm Mmm stanky indoor climbing with spectators!!! whats not to like? Oh yea, unsolicited beta! Devin C.
Joined Aug 12, 2008
19 points
Feb 5, 2010
Eiger summit
1) Breathing in chalk dust.
2) Germs all over the holds.
3) Cost to climb.
Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
638 points
Administrator
Feb 5, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
movement doesn't have NEARLY enough lead ropes. even when the place is fairly deserted, you end up waiting for a couple hours to get one. if you get one at all.

tight hands gym cracks that are only a few inches deep. nothing like bottoming your fingers out before you can even get your knuckles into it.

at the BRC i hated that all of the route setters are midgets. also, that they couldn't fathom that putting an enormous basketball hold on the lead slab wasn't the smartest idea...
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Feb 5, 2010
My kinda simian
Hank Caylor wrote:
What do you hate most about rock gyms?


They breed a modernized yuppie version of the crusty old trad climber that whines incessantly about gyms, yet climbs in them.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Feb 5, 2010
I really despise people who judge me for taking my shirt off, cursing, shouting out confusing beta, and setting kids on boulder problems directly below them. colin tuck
From Fairbanks
Joined May 1, 2007
63 points
Administrator
Feb 5, 2010
Pure bliss..
Ryan Kelly wrote:
They breed a modernized yuppie version of the crusty old trad climber that whines incessantly about gyms, yet climbs in them.



Chill out Ryan, I climb circles around you. No crust here dude.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
589 points
Feb 5, 2010
Wide abgle!
Kid Parties Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 15, 2009
549 points
Feb 5, 2010
Ryan Kelly wrote:
They breed a modernized yuppie version of the crusty old trad climber that whines incessantly about gyms, yet climbs in them.


Hey, most of us were modernized before gyms came along. And we don't whine about gyms, we whine about all the tools from gyms who go outdoors and treat it like the gym.

My gym peeves:

Way too easy to overtrain and get injured.
Those shallow, flared things they call "cracks".
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Feb 5, 2010
Jackasses mtoensing
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
826 points
Feb 5, 2010
me
When I'm at the rock gym I hate that I'm not at a real crag, with real rock.

Actually I really have tons of fun at rock gyms, but I would rather be climbing real rock any day.
Pat C
From Honolulu
Joined Mar 14, 2009
94 points
Feb 5, 2010
sums it up:

Brian Janezic
Joined May 6, 2007
35 points
Feb 5, 2010
Thats Me
i hate when i run into mp users. i like that my gym is shared by lots of college girls on treadmills. I, like matt, also hate jackasses. And kids. And no beer or weed. Man why do i climb in the gym?

p.s. before everyone jumps down my shirt i was just kidding about mp users. i think all of you are super duper awesome
clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
359 points
Feb 5, 2010
Bobby Hanson wrote:
I love Momentum, but have one major complaint: they really need to clean the cracks. I know several people who have gotten infections after climbing the cracks there, one was hospitalized last year.


I've suggested that they put up a sign that just says tape is required. Gobie mixing is gross.
Price
From SLC, UT
Joined Apr 29, 2007
324 points
Feb 5, 2010
At Tremadoc, Wales. Showing respect for the Main M...
Don't hate anything about gyms, so difficult to rank.

They are what they are - great for cold/wet weather and easily getting laps in. Having kids around is great - love to see youngsters getting into the sport (they do need to be supervised though).

Some people - staff and customers - can be a bit off sometimes, but then you get that anywhere. On the whole, other climbers are considerate and friendly. I have been climbing in gyms for training since the 80's - and have NEVER had a truly unpleasant experience.

\Edited to add: In the mid-90's a friend and I produced & marketed a product called 'Route Finders' that was intended to replace messy colored tape. It was used in the old BRC on Baseline for a while soon after it was built. We never did crack the issues with effective marking of routes - maybe someone should set about coming up with a new design?
Mattq331
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 11, 2006
18 points
Feb 5, 2010
Bocan
A lot of things...but the two that bother me the most are inconsiderate folks and the people that climb barefoot. I don't want to touch your toe cheese... Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Feb 5, 2010
Scott McMahon wrote:
A lot of things...but the two that bother me the most are inconsiderate folks and the people that climb barefoot. I don't want to touch your toe cheese...



someone was climbing at rock-n-jam in his/her approach shoes, which had dog poop all over...
Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Joined May 9, 2008
61 points
Feb 5, 2010
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
i hate the fact that you never see anywhere near that many women at the crags. wait, i guess that's what i hate about the crags. Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Feb 5, 2010
EVERYTHING IS OVER VERTICAL! Most of us(older)climbers climb on less than or vertical rock. Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Feb 5, 2010
That is the best climbing film I've ever seen!

My biggest complaint about my current gym is the polished holds.

They make my teeth hurt.
Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,094 points
Feb 5, 2010
First 14er
I haven't seen anybody mention the belay technique that they teach. Our gym teaches the same technique that people use to hip belay, holding the brake line far out in front, parallel to the climber line. I guess its better than other gyms I have seen that have gri-gris attached to the ropes.

However, gyms have the best rock in Florida :) They also get you jacked and tan.
Kyle Freeman
From Oakland, CA
Joined Nov 17, 2009
25 points


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