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What are your thoughts: Central Pennsylvania Crack/Climbing Festival
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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Maybe our local businesses, example being Climbnasium, could benefit from this somehow? Is there a way to incorporate PA climbing (I'm bias towards a festival for the love of crack climbing), good local food, good local beer and have a local business or two (maybe all that partake?) Benefit from this?

Just because we don't have big walls or 10 lifetimes worth of splitters doesn't mean we don't have enough climbers, outdoor lovers, beer lovers, food lovers, etc in our region to hold something like this.

Think outside the box not just what they do out west (we are not) or anywhere else. Could the local PA climbing community even create something new, lead the way? A new style of fun (definitly all for fun and community) competition that is adapted to our rock (think Pond Bank for cracks purely as an example or Safe Harbor)

This idea is just for fun at this point. What do you think?

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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jan 18, 2013
Gunking
Does PA even have crack climbing?

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Sure does. Indian creek splitters no (we have a few), but cracks yes. We have some nice routes actually. Again not in the quantities like out west but we have enough off all types to gain a fluid connection to the techniques/movement.

I'm trying to create something here in central pa, not sure what but something.

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By Cor
Jan 18, 2013
black nasty
Are you Stoned, Master? ;D

Ahh the Climbnasium! I helped build that place back in the day.
Everyone there is great, I think you should talk to them, and
get a community effort going. (Or maybe you are from the Climbnasium.)

This thought came to my head when I saw your thread...

Have Climbnasium be the host area. Build 10-15ft tall wooden crack
structures of all sizes (capped on the back side) shapes, and flairs.
Have everyone bring extra crash pads. Some of the cracks could be set up out side, if it was done in the summer time...

Hold a splitter crack comp. Raise money from entering, or watching, etc..

Get a local food place involved. Get Troge's brewery involved?
Maybe they could have a beer tent on the Climbnasium property?
Same goes with a food booth/tent on the property?

It would be great exposure for Climbnasium. Get news to come film, or write up the event.

Cheers,
C

Oh, and to add to that, you could have a horizontal support say between trees or something like that. but a horizontal support...

Then have the wooden cracks attach at the top. have the bottom swing free, so you can move it. Start with all the cracks being slab. Then after the first round of peeps go through, up the angle. Make it vert. Weed out a few more competitors, then make it overhung for the finals round... :)

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Love it dude! Excellent idea...you now have my mind racing with options. Good post man!

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By Cor
Jan 18, 2013
black nasty
Trying to think outside the box, since the outside areas that are local don't have a huge abundance of cracks...I figured that would be difficult to have something at an outdoor climbing area. Then you also have the rules of the Forest Service land, or whatever it may be. And it could be hard to get beer and food out there. So that is why I thought about the gym thingy.

It seems like the entry fees, etc. could help pay off the little bit of wood needed for the crack structures. Also the inside of the cracks could be painted with some gym(sandy)paint... so people don't suffer too bad at first. Or until you tip the cracks to overhanging! ;D

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By robrobrobrob
Jan 18, 2013
Wow, haven't thought about Climbnasium in a while... Cor.. were you there when the Amish guys came in and borrowed all of our power tools to build the downstairs high walls? Those dudes were crazy fast at framing.

I like the idea of building cracks and having a comp with beer and food. But how about having somethng like an art competition on that day? Best photo of someone climbing a crack, aiding a crack, most artistic crack photo, funniest crack photo.. or video. Have people bring evidence of the crack(s) they're on.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Noted. Great idea that would require little to no money to do but would be a hit. I like it.

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By slim
Administrator
Jan 18, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
maybe set a community toprope on manufractured? :)

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By Wannabe
Jan 18, 2013
Not to hijack the thread but slim what/where is manufractured? Always on the lookout for splitters.

Thanks,
Wannabe

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Ill answer that: I'm pretty sure its at bellefonte. Correct me if I'm wrong of course anyone. Wannabe I saw you were at pond bank earlier this month climbing some cracks. I'm headed there tomorrow to climb: cohens crack, wise crack, and glens roof. I'm practicing leavittation tomorrow for the first time. I'm also seeking every crack (within reason) in PA. We should check out some areas together. Let me know what you think.

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By Wannabe
Jan 18, 2013
Yeah,
I got wind of your crack addiction as well. I gotta say Super Crack was not so super in my opinion. Its an educational size to be sure-- but suffers from that "east coast" problem of being too short. I'd bring the #4 for sure. I'll climb it again just to see if some "half stacks" or small stacks work better for me. They we're the most rattling fist jams I've ever placed. I'd definitely be in to learning some levitation. Let me know how cohen's crack is. Maybe I'll pm you next time I'm headed out to pondbank.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
This dialogue keeps bumping this thread...

Sounds keep wannabe. Have you tried mr. Gut wrench at pond bank? I've only climbed it once, second but its a solid climb that ill lead here at some point. Only so much time in the day.

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By Cor
Jan 18, 2013
black nasty
Robro,

I started climbing outside 89/90 before the gym opened.. After I discovered the gym, they had the upstairs basic walls built, and downstairs rappel tower built. I do remember that famous Amish story though. :) Pretty funny!

I did get to help build the main roof/overhang when you come in, and the wall to the left of it, that has a crack if I remember right...

Then I set routes, and worked at the gym for many(?) years.
It was a great opportunity, and experience!

Stoned Master, I thought the comp idea would be good, as they still have comps there, and they seem to do well with that (as far as I know)
And yep, you are thinking of Bellefonte... The crack was cut in using a concrete saw!

If anyone wants a wide crack, go check out my Astroboy at Gretna!
It is a lovely wide crack experience.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Astroboy is on mine and my friends list for Sunday! Great you mentioned that. I've seen it once and it looks fun, and where I'm at with climbing challenging. The prow area is fun period. Hopefully the weather stays at 35/36 and sunny for Sunday.

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By Cor
Jan 18, 2013
black nasty
Cool man, take some pictures!

Also check out Reunion @ the upper matrix.
(although not really a "splitter")

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Ill check out. From the pics it looks fun. Thanks man for the suggestion!

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By robrobrobrob
Jan 18, 2013
Hoping Rick Mix will chime in on Manufractured he cut it in... umm.. 82? maybe?. It's at Bellefone, I think 11.b(?), he even cut rests in, although they are few and far between. Last time I was on in (late 90's?) felt stiffer than that because the feet were polished.

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By Patrick Mulligan
Jan 18, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma
Good lord, that brings back some memories. I redpointed Manufractured back in '93 or '94. If I remember there were 5 or 6 bolts protecting the route and I beleive I placed a nut or two in some of the drilled finger "pockets". It felt harder than .11 to me at the time (it was one of the few routes I'd rehearsed before leading". Actually it was harder than any of the .11s I did in Colorado as well, but the pain factor had something to do with it. Tape up for this one. I mean layers of tape on your tips and to your 2nd knuckle. As for rests, I don't remember any, but its been a looong time.

I don't think I'd trust those bolts anymore. They've probably been rusted beyond trustworthiness for 15 years now.

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By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 18, 2013
Hi all. OK here goes- Yes 'twas I that cut the crack in the wall. And put in the bolts. Sorry to hear they're rusty. Prolly still ok though...

What can I say. We felt the need for a 5.11 finger crack. Took two days. Pretty hard work rappelling with a demo saw.

JB came back later and drilled the thing out with our Ryobi gas drill.

There ya go.

FLAG


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