What are the hardest trad climbs ever onsighted/flashed?
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Nerding out on a sunday night. |
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Sonnie trotter has had some pretty impressive onsight/flashes. I remember a video where Honnold gave him the beta of some Squamish climb and he flashed. Hard 13 I think. Couldn't find the video though. |
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This list has several instances of 13a cracks being onsighted, so here are a few more: |
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I think it's Lake of Fire 13c, the direct start of 69. |
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Aleks? |
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Big Red Roof 13b (Pinkpoint) |
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I thought Honnold didn’t actually flash Heaven, admitting later he had Jimmy or one of the other people there hand him a rope on the mantel move at the top? I’m fairly certain I read that in Mark Synnott’s book? |
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Ryan Wood wrote: I thought Honnold didn’t actually flash Heaven, admitting later he had Jimmy or one of the other people there hand him a rope on the mantel move at the top? I’m fairly certain I read that in Mark Synnott’s book? He came back to film it with Jimmy Chin, initially he tried it when Mason Earle was working it several years earlier. Also add Jerry Moffat flashing Phoenix or Todd Skinner on Fallen Arches back in the 80’s |
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Wouldn't be surprised if it some British guy, they are obsessed with onsighting. Just watched a video about the first E9 he was like yeah you would die if you fall, but the real prize is still out there the onsight. But yeah who knows what british grades are. |
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Concepcion / Acromaniac |
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I would actually say Pete Cleveland’s onsight of Son of Great Chimney was one of the more impressive trad onsights. Although only 5.11, it was one of the hardest climbs at the time (may have been the first 5.11), done on pins (they’re still there) and not much else (he essentially soloed the top, harder half of the climb). No sticky rubber or modern pro. When was the last time someone attempted to ONSIGHT a tricky gear route at the technical limits of the day? This would be like trying to onsight an R/X rated 5.14+ today, unbelievable. |
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Alex Megos on the Path (5.14R). |
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Ryan Wood wrote: I thought Honnold didn’t actually flash Heaven, admitting later he had Jimmy or one of the other people there hand him a rope on the mantel move at the top? I’m fairly certain I read that in Mark Synnott’s book? That may of happened while filming the Squarespace commercial. No photog when Honnold did it the first time. I shot him on Cosmoc Debris (13b solo) that morning. After we were done he said he was gonna go to Heaven and asked if I wanted to go with. I was mentally cooked and said no. And who knows what the books says but I believe one of Marks favorite lines is “100% of 80% percent of what I say is true” Edit: maybe what Mark says is 100% of most of what I say is true... |
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Since I started this thread, I had the opportunity to give some cursory beta to Mikey and see him climb Compleat Angler at Trout Creek first go. What really impressed me was his pacing, he knew when to hit the gas and when to rest. |
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Nice Jon, I don’t think I ever saw that. I hadn’t been crack climbing or placing gear at all when I did that thing. I think I had the sport climbing jitters up there! But at least I could hold on for a long time! I am so slow. |
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Ondra on Salathe'? Didn't he almost onsight the entire route a few years ago? |
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Key word: almost. ;) |
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Steven Sheets wrote: Alex Megos on the Path (5.14R). I’d put money on this being the answer |
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Mikey Schaefer wrote: Hah, that’s awesome. Thanks for the color Mikey. For those of us just getting into climbing, the books are the main portals to the climbers and their feats of the past, it’s awesome to hear stuff from the horses mouth, so to speak. Cheers. |
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City park index, for sure. 5.13d sandbag. I think it’s only seen 6 or 7 assents |
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lucas funkhouser wrote: City park index, for sure. 5.13d sandbag. I think it’s only seen 6 or 7 assents Definitely hasn’t been flashed or onsighted yet. I’ve heard rumors the great Allen Watts almost flashed it for its 2nd ascent but his tips were bleeding so bad he slipped out. Besides that attempt there is nothing even close. My guess is no one has even sent in less that 15 tries or so. |