What are the 'can't misses' for red rocks trip jan 23-30?

I will be in Vegas for a week and I plan on doing long multi-pitch routes. Any suggestions? My criteria in developing the list was sunny, moderate, ease of access, and ease of descent. Here's my unedited list so far-

Tunnel Vision, Purblind Pillar, Rawlpindi ,Big Horn ,Birdland, MysterZ, Geronimo ,Vanishing Point ,Olive Oil ,Cat in the Hat,Black Widow Hallow ,Cookie Monster ,Crimson Chrysalis ,Johnny Vegas ,Solar Slab,Black Dagger ,Armatron, Black Orpheus(end of the week climb if we are climbing smartly and efficiently).

Thanks for any help you can give,
Russell

PS Is there anything going on during those days that i should be aware of?

Tunnel Vision, Purblind Pillar, Black Dagger -- not very sunny

Varnishing Point -- good route, but only 2 pitches

Black Widow Hollow -- sustained deep chimney, probably cold!

Crimson Chrysalis -- do it on a day with no wind

You might also consider several other routes on the Solar Slab (Sunspot, Sunburn, etc). Windy Peak has some good sunny routes (Jubilant Song and others).

Crimson Chrysalis is the best route for its grade, imho. Highly recommend it. Start the approach before dawn. We took a couple of wrong turns on the way there so plan accordingly.

Agree with comments about Crimson Chrysalis being cold and windy. It's at the mouth of the canyon and can be miserably breezy. It will not get any sun while you are there. Still, if it's not windy, it's worth a trip.

Also, although I've never done it, check out Jubilant Song. It's in the southern end of the park, and is supposed to be stellar for the grade. It's also usually quieter than other routes, if you expecting it to be busy. The approach and descent might be more involved than what you are looking for, though.

Glad to see Armatron on there, the Brownstone Wall doesn't get visited enough!

Have a blast!

Even with no wind, Crimson will be freezing in January (unless you hit an all-time record heat wave - and even then it'll probably be frozen). Likewise the other routes Larry lists (although Brownstone wall gets sun, the far left is quickly shaded, and the big dihedral of Black Dagger gives even more shade). Armatron will be sunny.

Larry's recommendation for Windy Peak is a great one, especially since the approach is outside of the loop road (no exit worries). Hot Fudge Thursday is another good route, and the first 2 pitches of Joanne of Arch (then rap - do not rap p3 or above, knife-edge roof on p3) have one of (if not the) best 5.9 crack/corners in Red Rocks. You need a medium/high clearance vehicle for Windy Peak, and go look at the "How to access Black Velvet during renovation of the Late Night parking lot" thread - take the south-westernmost access road.

In any case, make sure to get a late exit permit for any long route (permit is free) by calling 702-515-5050 with your intended route, car license plate, and other info.

Myster Z is a pretty fun route and gets full sun that time of year. If you're quick, you could walk over and do some of the routes on the right side of the Brownstone Wall. That will give you around 11-12 pitches of climbing. Here is a picture of the Brownstone Wall taken at about noon on January 20th. Note that the Black Dagger is in full shade on the left.

mountainproject.com/v/sqwir…

Thank you for the help everyone. My plans are definitely refined with your advice.

One question that remains is what route to do on our shortened 1st day. WIth luck we will be in the parking lot around 12pm. My buddy's a strong climber but this will be his first multi-pitch experience so i wanted to do something easy and long but not too long. Geronimo seems perfect except for the descent problems people have complained about (are these exaggerated?). Does anyone have an idea for an easy climb with a shorter approach that is medium length (approx. 500')? Something we can hop on in an afternoon.

Thank you again
Russell

Birdland can be completed fairly quickly, and has a short approach by Red Rock standards.

Purblind Pillar also has a pretty short approach, and can be done quickly with the great beta from this site, and has an easy walk off.

Both awesome climbs, and a good introduction to Red Rock multi-pitches.

Geronimo descent a hassle ? ... Nah ... bahhh
No worries !

Short, easy approach, mulitpitch for a first, 1/2 day starting at the "crack of noon' ?
-'Physical graffitti'

It won't be in the sun.
However, the approach and route quality would make it a great 'jump on' for an afternoon.
mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

Given the noon start, you don't have much time to climb before it gets dark, especially considering if it's an unfamiliar or long approach, and your partner has never climbed trad before.

I'd focus on a good two-pitch route. Physical Graffiti definitely comes to mind. Great route, easy descent. Don't be put off by the "easy" rating, it's high quality. The only downside is that it is east-facing and will be cold in the afternoon.

That's why I'd suggest Great Red Book. Faces west and will be sunny until the last moment of the day. Lots of fun. Approach is a bit of a maze (you have to find the Black Corridor), but the route can be seen from the parking lot.

The only downside to Great Red Book is that you can't get a late exit permit at the first several pull-outs. And to avoid the late-exit $150 parking ticket, you should be sure to get out of the park on time or get a permit...

And by the way, if the weather is cold and cloudy, climb whatever route you want because if the sun's not out then there is no such thing as a "sunny route". So if it's crappy (seen the forecast?) consider Angel Food Wall and Brownstone Wall, etc., on your big days out.

The Angel Food wall was really cold when I climbed Purblind Pillar last year in January.