By camhead
Jan 16, 2013
| Blake Cash wrote: I'll second Jesus and Tequila...took me more tries than Black Rider which is 13a. I'll also second The Racist, my draws are still on that route. Hopefully redemption happens this weekend...looks good! Any Henry Barber routes in the Northeast also get the big ole' sandbag.
Good luck on The Racist, Blake! And what is this Black Rider of which you speak? I looked in the guidebook and could not find it; must be at a secret crag or something.
Speaking of Barber, Cornflake Crack (11a) at Looking Glass is hard; definitely harder for me in every way than Safari Jive (11c) next door. But since it's NC, I hesitate to call it a true sandbag. | 
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By JohnWesely
From Athens, GA
Jan 16, 2013
| camhead wrote: Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4."
I used to try Soap every time I went to Rocktown. They day I sent it, I also climbed a couple of 8s and a couple of 7s. It felt just as hard as those. |
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By Jeff Fiedler
Jan 16, 2013
| Oh Pooh, and Pooh's Corner. Both 5.1, at Seneca.
Thought these would be walk ups to do first trad leads on.
I've been on easier 5.6's |
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By Mike Rowley
Jan 16, 2013
| Dont know if anyone has mentioned these yet, but Hemp Liberation at Smith Rock is suuuuuper stout for the grade (5.10d), and from what I hear, Last Waltz, also at Smith is just about the hardest ".12c" ever! |
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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Jan 16, 2013
| The Corkscrew at Redstone seemed quite hard for V5. But then again, V5 seems to be a classic sandbag grade at a lot of areas. Par for the course maybe. |
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By Blake Cash
Jan 16, 2013
| camhead wrote: Good luck on The Racist, Blake! And what is this Black Rider of which you speak? I looked in the guidebook and could not find it; must be at a secret crag or something. Speaking of Barber, Cornflake Crack (11a) at Looking Glass is hard; definitely harder for me in every way than Safari Jive (11c) next door. But since it's NC, I hesitate to call it a true sandbag.
Sorry...Pocket Route, Black Rider is the original name Reed gave it. Somehow it evolved into "that route with the pocket" into "the pocket route" to just "pocket route". Black Rider is WAY cooler of a name. I hope it goes alright this weekend. I had such a good last burn all the way back in October when you were belaying me! It's been that long too!
Go try some of his "5.9's" at the Spiders Web in the 'Daks....you WILL either fall or scream or something along those lines. |
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By Blake Cash
Jan 16, 2013
| JohnWesely wrote: I used to try Soap every time I went to Rocktown. They day I sent it, I also climbed a couple of 8s and a couple of 7s. It felt just as hard as those.
Soap on a Rope was my "warm up" project for the Orb. I did the orb first. |
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By burlap submariner
Jan 16, 2013
| The Diagonal 5.9+ Cathedral Ledge NH
Shockleys Ceiling 5.6 Gunks NY
Dare by the Sea 5.10 Acadia ME
Titties and Beer 5.9+ Looking Glass NC
Werks up 5.8 Eldorado Canyon CO
Black Dagger Chimney 5.10 Longs Peak CO
The Diagonal 5.8 Wallface NY
Fastest Gun 5.9+ Pokomoonshine NY
Crack of Doom 5.10 Lumpy CO
West Face 5.11- Castelton Tower UT
Hypercrack on the anchor chain 5.11 Merrimac Butte UT
Puttin in time 5.11 The Captian NH |
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By Matt H-
Jan 16, 2013
| P1 and the ow on p2 of The North Chimney, Castleton Tower5.8. P3 on Kor-Ingalls, Castleton Tower5.9.
[Leading] Walk on the wild side, jtree nat. park 5.7 (if you don't like slab leading). A 5.7 leader better have all the confidence in the world or serious friction talent/trust to pull that route off without shitting their pants- I think. Just an opinion. |
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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jan 16, 2013
| burlap submariner wrote: The Diagonal 5.9+ Cathedral Ledge NH Shockleys Ceiling 5.6 Gunks NY Dare by the Sea 5.10 Acadia ME Titties and Beer 5.9+ Looking Glass NC Werks up 5.8 Eldorado Canyon CO Black Dagger Chimney 5.10 Longs Peak CO The Diagonal 5.8 Wallface NY Fastest Gun 5.9+ Pokomoonshine NY Crack of Doom 5.10 Lumpy CO West Face 5.11- Castelton Tower UT Hypercrack on the anchor chain 5.11 Merrimac Butte UT Puttin in time 5.11 The Captian NH
Diagonal on Wallface felt more like 5.7 to me, and just for two of the 7 pitches...the rest of it is BALLS easy. Very fun though do not get me wrong! |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 16, 2013
| camhead wrote: Ok, now this is the type of trivial bickering that I love on climbing forums! Ahem. Zealous totally felt soft to me; it just had too many great horizontal rests. Rapscallions seems way more stout. And don't feel too bad about the first pitch of Castleton's NF; it's solid 11-.
We are seriously opposite climbers man! How did we not figure this out at the City? Maybe it was because you spent too much time peeling me off of the ground!
I just remember whipping at the crux of Zealous more than once. It was like a dynamic move to a finger lock or something... But this was a while ago. I was probably just in over my head.
I did Rapscallions around the same time though and was OK. I actually think I said at the time that it wasn't any harder than Four Sheets.
Again with Looking Glass - I didn't have any issues with Cornflake Crack but fell twice while following Safari Jive and ended with a very bloody finger.
We should team up to free a big wall and each lead the routes that are hard for the other. Except that first we'd have to figure out which routes are hard for the other... |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 16, 2013
| sanz wrote: And how can we forget Zombie Woof? I don't know if its really harder than 10b, but I don't think anyone has ever gotten on that route fully prepared for the task at hand.
Classic. |
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By nadeleets
Jan 16, 2013
| Princess Mia wrote: Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha
+1 |
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By The Ex-Engineer
From UK
Jan 16, 2013
| I was deliberately sandbagged in the Valley when my partner suggested doing a "long, classic HVS* crack climb" knowing full well that was not a completely honest description.
If you haven't already guessed it was the Steck Salathe on Sentinel Rock - www.mountainproject.com/v/steck-salathe/105862873
Thankfully, we only got benighted on the descent about 20 minutes from the road and then got a lift most of the way back to Camp 4 from a friendly Park Ranger. Although, it is probably worth adding that we were so utterly exhausted we then had to take two days off from climbing to recover...
[*For those who are not aware the UK grade of HVS is equivalent to hard 5.8 or 5.9] |
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By Puzman
Jan 16, 2013
| burlap submariner wrote: Shockleys Ceiling 5.6 Gunks
Shockley's at 5.6 is a frickin' joke! Harder than some 5.8s I've been on. Also, Carey's Corner at Ragged in CT (5.7, feels more like 5.9). |
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By camhead
Jan 16, 2013
| Ryan Williams wrote: We are seriously opposite climbers man! How did we not figure this out at the City? Maybe it was because you spent too much time peeling me off of the ground! I just remember whipping at the crux of Zealous more than once. It was like a dynamic move to a finger lock or something... But this was a while ago. I was probably just in over my head. I did Rapscallions around the same time though and was OK. I actually think I said at the time that it wasn't any harder than Four Sheets. Again with Looking Glass - I didn't have any issues with Cornflake Crack but fell twice while following Safari Jive and ended with a very bloody finger. We should team up to free a big wall and each lead the routes that are hard for the other. Except that first we'd have to figure out which routes are hard for the other...
Hehe, the way it sounds, you'll get all the corners, and I'll get all the splitters. Unless they suddenly thin down to Shredded Wheat width. |
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By Notapplicable
Jan 16, 2013
| The Stoned Master wrote: Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.
I don't know. I onsight soloed Solar and while it was full value .7, it was no .9 I would have noticed that for sure, given the circumstances. Classic route with a heads up final pitch though.
Generally speaking, most of the well traveled routes at Seneca had their grades corrected with the last edition. Except for West Pole. That thing is silly hard for the grade. The .8 direct finish is easier than the roof crux on the regular route. |
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By Notapplicable
Jan 16, 2013
| camhead wrote: Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.
I second it as a sandbag. If you're a 5 ft. female with little baby fingers (as my partner does, who onsighted)then it's probably spot on. I couldn't get more than a single digit on my pinky in at the crux. Failed all over it. |
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By pooler
From Albany, NY
Jan 17, 2013
| The Origin Nine Corners Lake NY. Says 4 yeah right |
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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2013
| The Ummph slot is only 5.9+, right?!?!? |
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By Ben Griffin
From Durango, CO
Jan 17, 2013
| The hollow flake pitch on el cap. |
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By PTR
From GA
Jan 17, 2013
| Speaking of Seneca:
I can't comment on Soler, but I did a route there many years ago rated at 5.4 in the old guide (Expotition?). Barnes guide upgrades it to 5.7. That's quite the sandbag for a new leader in EBs.
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By Greg Berry
Jan 17, 2013
| North Carolina will never flood.
Lover's Leap felt pretty snadbagged. Not to say anything negative about a stellar crag like Lover's. |
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