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What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering
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By Camden
From Madison, WI
Jan 15, 2013
Devil's Lake

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2013
Bocan
Anything that Layton Kor put up... :o)

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By Brian Abram
From Columbia, SC
Jan 15, 2013
Brian Abram, leading pitch 2 of Dinkus Dog on the South Side of Looking Glass.  Kyle Sox is belaying.
Titties and Beer 5.9 at Looking Glass, NC.

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By shotwell
Jan 15, 2013
camhead wrote:
Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4."


I found Soap on a Rope significantly harder than the Sherman Photo Roof. At least I'm not the only one who thinks it is pretty damn hard.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 15, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
Ryan Williams wrote:
Zealous at the New is hard for 10d. The first pitch on the North Face of Castleton kicked my ass pretty good, but maybe that was because we only had three blue Camalots? What is that, a 10c? I generally think everything is soft or accurate, but every once in a while I'll admit to a route being hard for the grade.


Ok, now this is the type of trivial bickering that I love on climbing forums!

Ahem.

Zealous totally felt soft to me; it just had too many great horizontal rests. Rapscallions seems way more stout.

And don't feel too bad about the first pitch of Castleton's NF; it's solid 11-.

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By Sam Stephens
Jan 15, 2013
Top half of Melifluous
New World Order at the New feels so stupid hard for the grade, even after knowing all the holds and beta.

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By Andrew Mayer
Jan 15, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
Scott McMahon wrote:
Anything that Layton Kor put up... :o)


+1

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jan 15, 2013
modern man
KevinF wrote:
I was going to say you can't trust most 5.7s in CT. I swear the 5.8s are easier.


you are correct sir from what I've seen. maybe fish can say, he is the expert ct trad climber.

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By Dave C
From Homeless, CO
Jan 15, 2013
shotgunnelson wrote:
Circus trick at big bend. Hardest V4 ever



Agreed.

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By brat
Jan 15, 2013
Celebrating on Intersection Rock, JTree.
NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock.

Kicked my butt somethin awful...

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By bohran
Jan 15, 2013
Mars in the VRG 13b! Fuck THAT B.S.

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Jan 16, 2013
Stabby
There's This and then there's everything else.

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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jan 16, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.
Jon H wrote:
I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide.


IMHO, "Modern Times" is no harder than 8+. It is not sustained, has enormous roof jugs, and is over in 5 moves. Now, routes like "Try Again", "Birdie Party", and "TransCon", could arguably be called sandbagged, but again, that's just my opinion. There are many routes (too many to name) throughout the Daks that are at least a number grade off. And don't even get me started on Vermont! I would also put my vote in for many of the routes @ Index Town Wall in WA.

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By Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Jan 16, 2013
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.
another for Mother 1 at Vedauwoo, and tabula rasa at the monastery was pretty freakin hard.

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By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Jan 16, 2013
Easy. From my personal experience it was pitch 14 of Lurking Fear. My old Reid guide said 5.9 mantle and then 4th class. With a wall rack and comfortable shoes, I struggled to get the 4th class section clean. Kept thinking I must be off route and trying to traverse around, got wicked pumped and almost came off. Finally got it. WOW I thought, Valley 4th is bad ass. I mean, underclinging on 4th class?

Later the SuperTopo book comes out. 5.9 mantle to 5.11a or C2. Thats 12 number grades difference for those keeping score!

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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 16, 2013
Hey there!
Not quite as bad, but that made me think of the 4th class chimney on The Black Dagger in Red Rocks. That was the hardest bit of 4th class climbing i've ever encountered.

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By Alex Washburne
Jan 16, 2013
I eat crack for breakfast.
Madame G's Wulst at the Gunks. It's sandbagged at 5.6+, and it is the best route ever. With 60m doubles you can do the entire 62m pitch with minimal and safe simulclimbing for what is, in my opinion, the best 'moderate' pitch in the Gunks.

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By nbrown
From western NC
Jan 16, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
Of all the sandbagged routes that come to mind, I think "Entrance Crack" at Stone Mountain, NC might be the worst. It's only "5.4" but has probably seen more epics per capita than any other beginner route that I know of. It's essentially unprotectable without large cams or big bros, two things which most beginners generally do not possess.

I can think of a lot of hard routes that are sandbagged, but that's a different story.

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By sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Jan 16, 2013
One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crowder's Mountain.
nbrown wrote:
Of all the sandbagged routes that come to mind, I think "Entrance Crack" at Stone Mountain, NC might be the worst. It's only "5.4" but has probably seen more epics per capita than any other beginner route that I know of. It's essentially unprotectable without large cams or big bros, two things which most beginners generally do not possess. I can think of a lot of hard routes that are sandbagged, but that's a different story.


Good lord did that route scare me the first time. Had never climbed friction and tried to do it as an offwidth. 40 feet run out, gastoning the crack, with elvis leg, my buddy took a 30 ft cheese-grater fall on Dirty Crack next door and let out this agonizing scream. Pretty sweet intro to Stone.

Super Direct at Moore's is definitely a 5.8 with a 5.10 finger crack start. Zoo View, Air Show, and I would also add Head Jam, are all supposedly beginner routes that routinely shit on beginning leaders. Nutsweat was also a really intense first 5.9 lead for me.

And how can we forget Zombie Woof? I don't know if its really harder than 10b, but I don't think anyone has ever gotten on that route fully prepared for the task at hand.

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By TBlom
Jan 16, 2013
Cussin Crack, 5.7, Boulder Canyon

Osiris, 5.6, Lumpy

Cosmosis, 5.9+, Boulder canyon

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By Blake Cash
Jan 16, 2013
I'll second Jesus and Tequila...took me more tries than Black Rider which is 13a.

I'll also second The Racist, my draws are still on that route. Hopefully redemption happens this weekend...looks good!

Any Henry Barber routes in the Northeast also get the big ole' sandbag.

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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 16, 2013
Hey there!
Rapscallions seems way more stout.

When i did that i forgot the guidebook in the car and thought i was on Four Sheets to the Wind. Didn't realize there were two corners down there, so i thought it was the single most sandbagged .9 ever. Was pretty relieved when i found out i was wrong.

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By GMBurns
Jan 16, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)
Jon H wrote:
Wait.... people care about boulder problems? I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide.



MT is absolutely a 5.8+, there's no sandbag on that at all.

Horseman feels kind of hard for the grade, and I'm not talking about the corner. The face move after pulling the arete seemed stiff to me.

I did feel that Birdcage, Criss Cross Direct, Broken Sling, and Yellow Belly (not Yellow Ridge) were stiff, too.

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By ChanVan
Jan 16, 2013
hello
Athlete's Feat, 11a, Boulder Canyon

Birdie Party, 10a, Gunks, and for that matter most routes there rated 5.10 and under...

Der Letzte Zug, 12c, Boulder Canyon (!!!)

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 16, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
"All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA."

No Sport Climbing at Dome Rock.

Just cause its all bolts, dosen't make it sport.

All of the climbs there were done before the concept of "Sport Climbing" came along.

"Red Mushroom" is the closest thing there.... 10c... yeah about right.

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