By Alex Dziaba
Jan 15, 2013
| What are some of the most sandbagged routes in the US? I was thinking Hungry for Heaven at T-Wall is a good one. | 
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By The Stoned Master
From Millerstown, PA
Jan 15, 2013
| Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+. |
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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Jan 15, 2013
| I agree on Hungry for Heaven, that thing is very 10++. Others that come to mind would be:
-Coexistence at the Gunks
-Bombs Over Tripoli at City of Rocks
-Barbeque the Pope at Smith Rock
-Jesus and Tequila at the NRG (I've heard The Racist is pretty hard, too, but have not been on it)
-Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald, NC
-Wiggins II at Indian Creek
-Sign of the Cross at Hueco Tanks.
Now everyone can chime in and tell me how weak I am for thinking these were hard. |
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By Guy Keesee
Jan 15, 2013
| Easy.... "False Classic Corner" in Josh. GB says 5.7.... To me it felt like 5.10.... |
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By Bob Robinson
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Jan 15, 2013
| Kahuna Roof (V5) at Carter Lake |
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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Jan 15, 2013
| Wait.... people care about boulder problems?
I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide. |
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By Ian Cavanaugh
Jan 15, 2013
| Yes to Bombs in the City! compare that to Gemini, not even close.
also Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon and pretty much any route that Dwight Bishop did in Butte, Homestake pass. He kept getting strong, but his grading never changed! |
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By Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Jan 15, 2013
| All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA. |
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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jan 15, 2013
| Tits and Beer at Looking Glass
Aerospace Cadet "
Stannard's Crack at Mt. Yonah
I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag. How can you sandbag a boulder problem when there is not much consequence to getting in over your head. |
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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 15, 2013
| The Stoned Master wrote: Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.
Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler. |
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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Jan 15, 2013
| Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
| Every noob in the nineties got tricked into jumping on the then 5.7- Captain Kronos at Josh |
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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Jan 15, 2013
| Any boulder problem with the word Bachar in the name. |
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By DylanJK
From Alameda, CA
Jan 15, 2013
| Seth Derr wrote: Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.
Agreed. IMO, most routes at Seneca and the Gunks
To me, the one that stands out the most is the 2nd pitch of Birdie Party in the Gunks. Listed as 10b, I thought 11-. |
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By Chance Philippi
Jan 15, 2013
| anything climbed before 1970. Try leading Soler in Hiking boots. Love Seneca Rocks |
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By CaptainMo
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
| Most of CT's classics. |
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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Jan 15, 2013
| TomCaldwell wrote: I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag.
Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks. |
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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Jan 15, 2013
| Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4." |
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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jan 15, 2013
| Mother #1, 5.7+, at Vedauwoo.
Halfway up there were a stream of curse-words coming out of my mouth, but by time I made it to the top I was all smiles (at least once I had caught my breath and was done heaving).
I know, I know, I just need to work on my OW technique, but when I needed to work on hand crack, slab, fist crack, finger crack, etc techniques, 5.7s (or 8s or 9s) didn't feel as hard as Mother #1. |
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By Sisyphus
From St. George
Jan 15, 2013
| Thunder magnolia pussy, Granite Mtn. Was a long time ago and i was a noob but it made an impression. The first pitch of the Organasm, ZNP, or any other 5.8-9 chimney with Lowe attached. |
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By KevinF
From Granby, CT
Jan 15, 2013
| CaptainMo wrote: Most of CT's classics.
I was going to say you can't trust most 5.7s in CT. I swear the 5.8s are easier. |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 15, 2013
| camhead wrote: Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.
You must have been off that day. I would have said you'd cruise it. Hell, I onsighted it and you've seen me climb!
Cool question though. I think there are plenty of 5.7 and 5.8 climbers who'd sayZoo View and Airshow at Moore's are a bit sandbagged. Airshow isn't much easier than the 10a right next to it. Also, the start of Super Direct is a sandbag. Once you get to 5.10 though the grades seem to get more accurate.
I remember thinking Aesthesia at the Spider's Web in the Dacks was super hard for 10a.
Zealous at the New is hard for 10d.
The first pitch on the North Face of Castleton kicked my ass pretty good, but maybe that was because we only had three blue Camalots? What is that, a 10c?
I generally think everything is soft or accurate, but every once in a while I'll admit to a route being hard for the grade. |
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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jan 15, 2013
| "Wait.... people care about boulder problems?
I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide."
That new guidebook IS silly...Modern Times is spot on for 5.8+ in my opinion. Laurel, now that is sandbagged at 5.7... |
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