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What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering
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By Alex Dziaba
Jan 15, 2013
Swallow the Hollow, 12a

What are some of the most sandbagged routes in the US? I was thinking Hungry for Heaven at T-Wall is a good one.


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By Brandon Gottung
From Moab, UT
Jan 15, 2013
В Екатеринбурге

Crack of Fear - 5.10d (Lumpy Ridge)


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 15, 2013
Day Lily.

Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 15, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

I agree on Hungry for Heaven, that thing is very 10++. Others that come to mind would be:
-Coexistence at the Gunks
-Bombs Over Tripoli at City of Rocks
-Barbeque the Pope at Smith Rock
-Jesus and Tequila at the NRG (I've heard The Racist is pretty hard, too, but have not been on it)
-Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald, NC
-Wiggins II at Indian Creek
-Sign of the Cross at Hueco Tanks.

Now everyone can chime in and tell me how weak I am for thinking these were hard.


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By shotgunnelson
Jan 15, 2013

Circus trick at big bend. Hardest V4 ever


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By Unassigned User
Jan 15, 2013

Every 5.9 in the McDowell range.

Or I am just weak.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 15, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Easy.... "False Classic Corner" in Josh. GB says 5.7.... To me it felt like 5.10....


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By Bob Robinson
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Jan 15, 2013
Bouldering Poudre Canyon, Colorado

Kahuna Roof (V5) at Carter Lake


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Jan 15, 2013
At the matching crux

Wait.... people care about boulder problems?

I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide.


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Jan 15, 2013

Yes to Bombs in the City! compare that to Gemini, not even close.
also Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon and pretty much any route that Dwight Bishop did in Butte, Homestake pass. He kept getting strong, but his grading never changed!


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By Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Jan 15, 2013
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA

All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jan 15, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Tits and Beer at Looking Glass
Aerospace Cadet "
Stannard's Crack at Mt. Yonah

I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag. How can you sandbag a boulder problem when there is not much consequence to getting in over your head.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 15, 2013
Hey there!

The Stoned Master wrote:
Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.



Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Jan 15, 2013
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013

Every noob in the nineties got tricked into jumping on the then 5.7- Captain Kronos at Josh


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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Jan 15, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...

Any boulder problem with the word Bachar in the name.


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By DylanJK
From Concord, CA
Jan 15, 2013
Not Climbing

Seth Derr wrote:
Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.


Agreed. IMO, most routes at Seneca and the Gunks
To me, the one that stands out the most is the 2nd pitch of Birdie Party in the Gunks. Listed as 10b, I thought 11-.


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By Chance Philippi
Jan 15, 2013

anything climbed before 1970. Try leading Soler in Hiking boots. Love Seneca Rocks


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Stoked...

Most of CT's classics.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 15, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

TomCaldwell wrote:
I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag.


Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 15, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4."


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jan 15, 2013
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Mother #1, 5.7+, at Vedauwoo.

Halfway up there were a stream of curse-words coming out of my mouth, but by time I made it to the top I was all smiles (at least once I had caught my breath and was done heaving).

I know, I know, I just need to work on my OW technique, but when I needed to work on hand crack, slab, fist crack, finger crack, etc techniques, 5.7s (or 8s or 9s) didn't feel as hard as Mother #1.


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By Sisyphus
From here and there
Jan 15, 2013
willie

Thunder magnolia pussy, Granite Mtn. Was a long time ago and i was a noob but it made an impression. The first pitch of the Organasm, ZNP, or any other 5.8-9 chimney with Lowe attached.


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By KevinF
From Granby, CT
Jan 15, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
Most of CT's classics.


I was going to say you can't trust most 5.7s in CT. I swear the 5.8s are easier.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 15, 2013
El Chorro

camhead wrote:
Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.


You must have been off that day. I would have said you'd cruise it. Hell, I onsighted it and you've seen me climb!

Cool question though. I think there are plenty of 5.7 and 5.8 climbers who'd sayZoo View and Airshow at Moore's are a bit sandbagged. Airshow isn't much easier than the 10a right next to it. Also, the start of Super Direct is a sandbag. Once you get to 5.10 though the grades seem to get more accurate.

I remember thinking Aesthesia at the Spider's Web in the Dacks was super hard for 10a.

Zealous at the New is hard for 10d.

The first pitch on the North Face of Castleton kicked my ass pretty good, but maybe that was because we only had three blue Camalots? What is that, a 10c?

I generally think everything is soft or accurate, but every once in a while I'll admit to a route being hard for the grade.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jan 15, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

"Wait.... people care about boulder problems?

I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide."

That new guidebook IS silly...Modern Times is spot on for 5.8+ in my opinion. Laurel, now that is sandbagged at 5.7...


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