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What are the 10 best 5.11's in J-Tree?
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By adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2012
Arlo in all his magnificence.

I know, there is a search function for this but I don't want a computers opinion, I want yours. What do you think are the 10 best 5.11's in J-Tree? My preference is cracks but if its a bolted route and beyond spectacular I'll do it.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Are you specific to crack climbing here, or do you just mean trad - there are a lot of trad climbs there that are not crack, kinda like Eldo, but moreso. Not trying to be a wise guy - just want to provide yo with what you are looking for.


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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Oct 21, 2012
onsight soloing Atman

Some favorites in no particular order

Coarse and Buggy 11a-My favorite pitch regarless of grade in the park
Heart of Darkness 10d/11a-a bit soft at 11a, but awesome
Such a Savage 11a-awesome face
Middle Age Crazy 11d-really good face-a bit sporty in spots
Hot Rocks 11c-crack w/ kind of a facey crux. A bit overhyped IMO, but good.
O'Kelley's "10c"-great crack which is really about 11a
Misfits 11b-crack and face, crux is crack
Scary Poodles 11b/c-crack and face. low crux is face.

Stuff I haven't done, but routes that are highly recommended by folks who have;

Wangerbanger 11c-hands and ringlocks
29 Palms 11d-stemming and palming
Vector 11c-thin crack


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Oct 21, 2012

Cracks huh?

Wangerbanger
O'Kelley's
Vector
Coarse and Buggy
Poaching Bighorn
Bendix Claws
Scary Poodles
Wedlock
Hot Rocks
More Monkey


That's a good start anyway.


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By Hardhat n Hexes
From Flagstaff, AZ.
Oct 21, 2012

Rubicon, Clean and Jerk, Hercules, Run for your Life (face), Perpetual Motion, Wangerbanger, O'Kelleys Crack, Course and Buggy, Hot Rocks, all the climbs in the Bighorn Mating Grotto and Figures on a Landscape. That should keep you busy for a few days!


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By Keith Robinson
Oct 21, 2012
Fitzroy09

Coarse and Buggy
Bendix Claws
wedlock
Wangerbanger
Rubicon
Morning Thunder
Heart of Darkness
Where have all the cowboys gone


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Oct 22, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Ok …I love these topics, not all of my pics are 5.11, but all are great climbs in their own right and worth climbing.

Misfits

Course and Buggy

O’Kelly’s …… Kelley’s
Has some of the best crack climbing in the Park.

Rubicon

Bendix Claws

Perpetual Motion ……. Really a old school 5.9….

Safety Pin

Right Mel Crack

Swept Away …. I know its not a crack.

The Highwayman

Apparition …. Not a 5.11, but the best crack in Indian Cove Campground.



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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Oct 22, 2012

Scary Poodles
Coarse and Buggy
Hot Rocks
Vector
Presupposition
Bendix Claws
Physical Graffiti
Disco Decoy
Overnight Sensation
Wangerbanger


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By JLP
From The Internet
Oct 22, 2012

Why are there so many 10's being recommended? I think that's a bizarre response to someone looking for 11's.

IMO, most of the above 11's are 11 because of only a few moves - not that they are bad routes. Spider Line would get my vote as a good, solid 11 that stays with you the whole way.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Oct 22, 2012

JLP wrote:
IMO, most of the above 11's are 11 because of only a few moves - not that they are bad routes.


I think every route on my list meets that criteria, but I think that is sort of the nature of Josh. Routes are more cruxy than sustained as a general rule. For sure there are exceptions, and I haven't tried Spider Line.


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By Bobby Treadwell
From Prescott, AZ
Oct 22, 2012
Walking the traverse.

best 5.11 in the park is Hyperion in the North Wonderland


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Oct 22, 2012

Spiderline isn't that sustained either, basically a two move crux at the bottom to much easier, if initially steep, climbing.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 22, 2012

My list:

Wangerbanger
Such a Savage
Hot Rocks
More Monkey
Alf's Arete
Coarse and Buggy
O'Kelley's (definitely .11 if you start from the ground)
Swept Away

Other's that I like but are more personal faves:
Sweet Ginger
Bebop Tango

Have yet to do:
Vector, but it looks so good!
Winds of Whoopee
Haven't done Bendix Claws. Looks just meh from afar and always heard the pro was suspect/tricky.


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By adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2012
Arlo in all his magnificence.

Great lists! Thank you and keep them coming.

I'll have 3 days in J-Tree in early November and my goal is to only do 4 star routes. Why settle for anything less when in a world class area?

I'm so psyched to be back in Joshua Tree!


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By A.Javi.Gecko
From San Diego, CA
Oct 22, 2012
V3, Castle Hill, NZ

adam brink wrote:
Great lists! Thank you and keep them coming. I'll have 3 days in J-Tree in early November and my goal is to only do 4 star routes. Why settle for anything less when in a world class area? I'm so psyched to be back in Joshua Tree!


... it might be a bit easier that 5.11 but my dream route in JTree has always been Figures on a Landscape. I've yet to try it but watching it done (well) is an awesome sight so I'm sure climbing it must be as well. Plus its on the biggest rock in the Wonderland!


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Oct 22, 2012
Russ

Desert Song
More Monkey Than Funky
Morongo Man
Living Conjunction
Wangerbanger
Bendix Claws
Coarse and Buggy
Hot Rocks
Hidden Arch
29 Palms
Big Bobs Big Wedge for a rest day


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By x15x15
Oct 22, 2012

tail gunner is cool!


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Oct 23, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

""Haven't done Bendix Claws. Looks just meh from afar and always heard the pro was suspect/tricky""

Not really, you need to do some moves at the bottom and a great belayer to give you some confidence. When your looking at crux you have so great pieces at your feet.

Adam.... good luck with your trip, the problem will be finding these climbs without a TR hanging on em.


EDIT: FISH has it right... "Morongo Man" .... no line on that one.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 23, 2012

No line on Swept Away either. A great, improbable line.

A pity the bolts on Last Unicorn suck. A great looking line. Still kind of mad I walked all the way out there only to see that ancient hardware.

Also, I'll second the sentiment above, I think one of the top 5 routes at Josh is Figures. If I had to recommend any one climb to someone, I think it'd have to be that one.


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Oct 23, 2012
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

Probably the highest concentration of good vertical cracks in Josh would be the The Fortress and Flying Fortress which face each other and form a little valley. That'd be a nice area to hike out to and camp. It's not too far from the Dunce Cap either. I've always wanted to climb Spirited Away 11b, but was always too intimidated. Hiked past it a couple times. It looks spectacular.


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By x15x15
Oct 23, 2012

Poaching Bighorn is a sweet climb that never has a line... oops,it has been mentioned... Well, if you are out that way you can head to elephant arches and inaguron dome. Black prez, inaguron, and white bread fever are waiting for climbers. Just waiting for a little attention. And they are ok climbs.


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By Richard Shore
Oct 24, 2012
Eichorns Pinnacle

Favorites that I've done:

Alf's Arete .11a
Big Moe .11a
Winds of Whoopee .11a
Coarse and Buggy .11a
Physical Graffiti .11a
More Monkey Than Funky .11b/c
O'Kelley's Crack .10c (+V3)
Presupposition .11d
Heart of Darkness .10d/.11a
Big Bob's Big Wedge .11a + V5

Runners up:

Crime of the Century .11a
Semi Tough .10d/.11a
Reallly Good .11c
Gold Strike .11b
Snake Book .11b (mistakenly listed as ".10d" here on MP)
Right Banana Crack .11a
Left Ski Track .11a
Janes Addiction .11b

On my to-do list for this season:

White Rain .11a R
Mojave Queen .11a
Crack Queen .11a
Wangerbanger .11b/c
Hot Rocks .11b
Overnight Sensation .11b
Swept Away .11a
Scary Poodles .11b
Grit Roof .11a
Morongo Man .11c
Vector .11c
Bebop Tango .11a
Wedlock .11a
Bendix Claws .11a

Goddamn I love Joshua Tree..


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Oct 24, 2012

Richard Shore wrote:
Favorites that I've done: Alf's Arete .11a Big Moe .11a Winds of Whoopee .11a Coarse and Buggy .11a Physical Graffiti .11a More Monkey Than Funky .11b/c O'Kelley's Crack .10c (+V3) Presupposition .11d Heart of Darkness .10d/.11a Big Bob's Big Wedge .11a + V5 Runners up: Crime of the Century .11a Semi Tough .10d/.11a Reallly Good .11c Gold Strike .11b Snake Book .11b (mistakenly listed as ".10d" here on MP) Right Banana Crack .11a Left Ski Track .11a Janes Addiction .11a On my to-do list for this season: White Rain .11a R Mojave Queen .11a Crack Queen .11a Wangerbanger .11b/c Hot Rocks .11b Overnight Sensation .11b Swept Away .11a Scary Poodles .11b Grit Roof .11a Morongo Man .11c Vector .11c Bebop Tango .11a Wedlock .11a Bendix Claws .11a Goddamn I love Joshua Tree..


That's a great list. For a bonus asskicking give The Woodshed a try.


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