Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Jim Ewing, Nate Kimble, Steve Dyer |
Page Views: | 2,830 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | chris deulen on Apr 14, 2011 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2024. Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
WABC is the right variation to WAB after the ledge rest. Start out the same for WAB (the cheater way starts in the juggy side pulls to the left of the start and would probaly only merit a 12c rating accompanied by shaming from the locals).
This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up.
WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion.
This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up.
WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion.
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