What About Bobcat
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WABC is the right variation to WAB after the ledge rest. Start out the same for WAB (the cheater way starts in the juggy side pulls to the left of the start and would probaly only merit a 12c rating accompanied by shaming from the locals).
This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up.
WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion.
Just to the right of the old fallen long. Same start as WAB.
Fixed gear, save the first bolt.
|Comments on What About Bobcat
|By Bill Morse|
May 7, 2013
This climb is AT LEAST 3 letter grades easier than What About Bob.