What About Bob?  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 65 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Jim Ewing, bolted by Bob Parrot Submitted By:  chris deulen on Nov 30, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jen Taylor on the "Kobe" move of What About Bob. P...

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Description 

What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and prepare for the boulder problem that follows the seam up left, then face climbs to the finish anchors.

This original left variation has only seen 3 ascents-Jim Ewing, Luke Parady, and myself (mumbles of holds breaking and magic "foot dyno" beta are frequently heard when referencing this finish). Per Jim Ewing, Luke Parady thought it climbed like a 13a/b, but was probably only 12d. From my personal experience, I would put this upper crux sequence around V9 (or 13c overall). It has thwarted the likes of, yes, Dave Graham, as well as Josh Wharton. Does this mean I'm better than Dave Graham and Josh Wharton? Probably.

Note: If you unlock the crux sequence, the theme from Star Wars plays.

Location 

Between Short Shagg and Shaggin Wagon.

Protection 

11 bolts, 2 anchors.