Whanganui Bay  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  -38.7845, 175.7308 Map Page Views:  3,922. Good page?    Administrators:  Cameron Fraser, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New Guidebooks (1)  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Whanganui Bay

Description 

A small bay on the west side of the lake with several large cliffs towering over the water below. The hard Ryolitic rock makes for some spectacular traditional climbing in a fantastic setting. There are numerous cracks here as well as some technical face and sport pulling as well. The area consists of a main wall, which you can't miss, and then several smaller cliff sections lining the hills around the bay.

The bay is owned by the Maori tribe Tuwharetoa, who allow us to climb for a small fee ($5). Find one of the guys who lives in the beach houses near the main wall. Be respectful of the Maori, as they could just as easily close the area to climbers. The Maori are sensitive to inappropriate language, and the cliffs reflect sound more than you think, so this isn’t the area to come to if you’re prone to throwing hissy fits when you climb (poorly).

There is camping for climbers near the rivermouth. The parking area is just up the road a bit, don’t park on the beach and don’t drive past the Marae (sacred temple).

There are many established routes in this area, see the guidebook by Len Gillman for more information.

Getting There 

Access the bay via a dirt road off highway 32. See www.climb.co.nz for more information.

Topo 

No freeclimb guide exists. Paperback guidebook "Whanganui rock" available at some outdoor shops (e.g. bivouac outdoor). See picture below. Out of date, but there is unfortunately no alternative.

The Classics

Featured Route For Whanganui Bay

Eternity Road 5.11-  International : North Island : ... : Whekenui Wall

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Photos of Whanganui Bay Slideshow

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View down Whekanui	BETA PHOTO: Whanganui Bay from up on The Plateau	BETA PHOTO: Guidebook "Whanganui Rock" by Len Gillman