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Whanganui Bay

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Plateau, The 
Whekenui Wall 

Whanganui Bay 


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Lat, Long: -38.7845, 175.7308 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Whanganui Bay from up on The Plateau

Description 

A small bay on the west side of the lake with several large cliffs towering over the water below. The hard Ryolitic rock makes for some spectacular traditional climbing in a fantastic setting. There are numerous cracks here as well as some technical face and sport pulling as well. The area consists of a main wall, which you can't miss, and then several smaller cliff sections lining the hills around the bay.

The bay is owned by the Maori tribe Tuwharetoa, who allow us to climb for a small fee ($5). Find one of the guys who lives in the beach houses near the main wall. Be respectful of the Maori, as they could just as easily close the area to climbers. The Maori are sensitive to inappropriate language, and the cliffs reflect sound more than you think, so this isnít the area to come to if youíre prone to throwing hissy fits when you climb (poorly).

There is camping for climbers near the rivermouth. The parking area is just up the road a bit, donít park on the beach and donít drive past the Marae (sacred temple).

There are many established routes in this area, see the guidebook by Len Gillman for more information.


Getting There 

Access the bay via a dirt road off highway 32. See www.climb.co.nz for more information.


Topo 

No freeclimb guide exists. Paperback guidebook "Whanganui rock" available at some outdoor shops (e.g. bivouac outdoor). See picture below. Out of date, but there is unfortunately no alternative.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whanganui Bay:
Tibia   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Whekenui Wall
Browse More Classics in Whanganui Bay

Featured Route For Whanganui Bay
Tibia, the prominent free standing pillar in Whekanui

Tibia 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c New Zealand : North Island : ... : Whekenui Wall
A Whanganui classic, for sure. An easy moderate, just a bit of oldschool chimney and off-width climbing to test your mettle. Climbs up behind the prominent free-standing pillar on Whekenui wall. Itís normally done in three pitches, but thatís only because of rope drag. The name comes from the pile of bones you find at the bottom of the chimney on the first pitch. Thereís a skull staring straight at you as you get ready to climb a runout chimney. Comforting. The story told to me went someth...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Whanganui Bay Slideshow Add Photo
Whanganui Bay
Whanganui Bay
View down Whekanui
View down Whekanui
Guidebook "Whanganui Rock" by Len Gillman
BETA PHOTO: Guidebook "Whanganui Rock" by Len Gillman
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