Whanganui Bay Rock Climbing
A small bay on the west side of the lake with several large cliffs towering over the water below. The hard Ryolitic rock makes for some spectacular traditional climbing in a fantastic setting. There are numerous cracks here as well as some technical face and sport pulling as well. The area consists of a main wall, which you can't miss, and then several smaller cliff sections lining the hills around the bay.
The bay is owned by the Maori tribe Tuwharetoa, who allow us to climb for a small fee ($5). Find one of the guys who lives in the beach houses near the main wall. Be respectful of the Maori, as they could just as easily close the area to climbers. The Maori are sensitive to inappropriate language, and the cliffs reflect sound more than you think, so this isnt the area to come to if youre prone to throwing hissy fits when you climb (poorly).
There is camping for climbers near the rivermouth. The parking area is just up the road a bit, dont park on the beach and dont drive past the Marae (sacred temple).
There are many established routes in this area, see the guidebook by Len Gillman for more information.
Access the bay via a dirt road off highway 32. See www.climb.co.nz for more information.
Climbing Season For the North Island area.
Weather station 11.7 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Whanganui Bay
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whanganui Bay:
Featured Route For Whanganui Bay
Tibia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: New Zealand
: ... : Whekenui Wall
A Whanganui classic, for sure. An easy moderate, just a bit of oldschool chimney and off-width climbing to test your mettle. Climbs up behind the prominent free-standing pillar on Whekenui wall. Its normally done in three pitches, but thats only because of rope drag. The name comes from the pile of bones you find at the bottom of the chimney on the first pitch. Theres a skull staring straight at you as you get ready to climb a runout chimney. Comforting. The story told to me went som...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: Whanganui Bay from up on The Plateau