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A small bay on the west side of the lake with several large cliffs towering over the water below. The hard Ryolitic rock makes for some spectacular traditional climbing in a fantastic setting. There are numerous cracks here as well as some technical face and sport pulling as well. The area consists of a main wall, which you can't miss, and then several smaller cliff sections lining the hills around the bay.
Access the bay via a dirt road off highway 32. See www.climb.co.nz for more information.
No freeclimb guide exists. Paperback guidebook "Whanganui rock" available at some outdoor shops (e.g. bivouac outdoor). See picture below. Out of date, but there is unfortunately no alternative.
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Tibia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R New Zealand : North Island : ... : Whekenui Wall
A Whanganui classic, for sure. An easy moderate, just a bit of oldschool chimney and off-width climbing to test your mettle. Climbs up behind the prominent free-standing pillar on Whekenui wall. Itís normally done in three pitches, but thatís only because of rope drag. The name comes from the pile of bones you find at the bottom of the chimney on the first pitch. Thereís a skull staring straight at you as you get ready to climb a runout chimney. Comforting. The story told to me went someth...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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