A small bay on the west side of the lake with several large cliffs towering over the water below. The hard Ryolitic rock makes for some spectacular traditional climbing in a fantastic setting. There are numerous cracks here as well as some technical face and sport pulling as well. The area consists of a main wall, which you can't miss, and then several smaller cliff sections lining the hills around the bay.
Access the bay via a dirt road off highway 32. See www.climb.co.nz for more information.
No freeclimb guide exists. Paperback guidebook "Whanganui rock" available at some outdoor shops (e.g. bivouac outdoor). See picture below. Out of date, but there is unfortunately no alternative.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whanganui Bay:
Featured Route For Whanganui Bay
Eternity Road 5.11- International : North Island : ... : Whekenui Wall
A fantastic wandering finger crack splitting a mostly smooth face that sits just shy of vertical. There are a few pockets that seem to come up just when your fingers are getting ready to give up....[more] Browse More Classics in International