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 ADVANCED
Torture Machine Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenaline S 
Conundrum S 
Double Whammy S 
House of Pain S 
Maximizer S 
Minimizer S 
Power Play S 
Power Whammy S 
Tangerine Dream S 
Technicolor Tango S 
Torture Machine S 
Vertigo S 
Whammy S 
Whammy Play S 
Wonderstuff S 
Unsorted Routes:

Whammy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 2,212
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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whammy!!

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sidle leftwards up the ramp (most skip the 1st bolt), then head up making long reaches between nice edges. The crux is a short sequence with marginal feet, but it's easily passed with a bit of technique, after which an easy bit of climbing concludes this pitch (the last bolt is essentially superfluous).

A good warm-up, and one of several popular routes in this area that see lots of traffic. There's an extension to this route called Double Whammy, 16 bolts to anchors.

Location 

Located about 80' left of a a prominent orange streak of rock that characterizes the area (Tangerine Dream). The route starts on a narrow, left-slanting ramp of rock, and shares the first bolt and anchors with Minimizer.

Protection 

7 bolts, ring anchors


Photos of Whammy Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning the crux sequence of Whammy (5.10a), Riv...
Beginning the crux sequence of Whammy (5.10a), Riv...
just above the crux on Whammy
just above the crux on Whammy
Working up "Whammy."
Working up "Whammy."

Comments on Whammy Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The climb seems to wander too much - all for about 10 feet of worthwhile climbing.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good warmup. Easy climbing with one distinct crux...I believe moving pass the 4th bolt on two crimps to left and right of it with a blind reach to a jug above.

Usually has climbers on this route as it is one of the easier routes in the area. It was my first lead ever and I usually put people on this climb as their first lead also. Easy access as it is one of the first routes you come across after taking the hike up to the base of this crag.
By Erik Campos
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The ramp part was easy. I hit a crux when the 2 routes connected. Don't do what I did and use all your energy on that crux. Past that part and you will find some really nice holds. Guidebook says its a 10b, is it?
By Tyler Quesnel
Jul 22, 2011

Okay warm up, but a little short. Basically easy climbing for 70% of the route with a couple moves that make it a 10.
By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great warm-up for new leaders at the quarry. I feel it's about 10a. No more, no less. Maybe 2 hard moves at the crux on crimps. Fun easy route.
By Rob M
From: Fullerton, ca
Jan 29, 2012

I thought it was pretty fun. Take 3 or so slings to extend some of the draws. You'll see them.
By wtfclem
Nov 27, 2012

Extremely awkward climbing, keep going past the anchors for Double Whammy and make the climb worthwhile!