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Whammy Play 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,121
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 12, 2007
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Just past the crux of Whammy Play (5.9), Riverside...
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This link-up combines the easier portions of two existing routes for the easist route in the immediate area.

Start up Whammy, trending left for 2 bolts and then continue leftward (avoiding the crux of Whammy) to join Power Play at it's 3rd bolt (above it's crux). Finish up Power Play to shared anchors on the ledge above.

This route does a fair bit of wandering so it's recommended to use long draws on bolts #2, 4, 5 and to use a full length runner on bolt #3. Done this way there's little to no rope drag yet adequate protection for those climbing at their limit.


Protection 

7 bolts, ring anchors (shared w/ Whammy)



Photos of Whammy Play Slideshow Add Photo
A look at Whammy Play from the bottom up.  Just below the crux move.
BETA PHOTO: A look at Whammy Play from the bottom up. Just be...
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Dec 24, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Despite its wandering nature it actually climbs quite well as it progresses through steep ground on good holds.

By Erik Campos
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Nice climb, good holds. Exactly like Whammy without the crux. Fun climb overall.

By Emmanuel Garcia
Aug 10, 2011

This is an ehh link up. The only enjoyable part for me was switching between Whammy and Powerplay.

I guess it's nice to have something that a 5.9 climber can finish but if you need something this easy you probably shouldn't be at the quarry.

By Ian McG
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Chongo, I agree. Oh, and having some long draws could be a good idea to minimize drag.