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The Main Cliffs
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Green Corners T 
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Swab The Deck S 
Whales Leave The Lats At Home S 
Unsorted Routes:

Whales Leave The Lats At Home 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joe Desimone, 1996
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 29, 2001

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Whales Leave The Lats At Home is actually the logical fusion of P1, Leave The Lats At Home, and P2 Beached Whale Impersonation. Both pitches are about 60 ft long, and can be rapped to the ground with double ropes. Otherwise you can rap off double bolts at the top of P2 and off a tree at the top of P1. P1 starts in the main right facing corner system of the cliff and picks up a bolt as you traverse right on to the face. Great pebble pinching for 60 feet takes you to the large spruce tree and a sprawling ledge. This will rap straight down the corner. When first put in this pitch was 5.11, however, Joe indicated to me that a key pebble broke above the fourth clip, turning the move into 5.12 (Joe's scale!!!), solid 5.12 is a better view. P2 takes off several feet left and up a bit, in a black streak. Lots of 5.10 climbing on pebbles and edges leads to a roof. Get a clip just before the roof and pull the roof from the left on reasonable jugs at probably middle 5.10. A short reach to double bolt anchors finishes the line. Three stars for good moves, excellent stone, and exposure above the roof on P2.

    Protection 

    Half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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