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Whale Tail Pilates 

Whale Tail Pilates 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas, Deborah Evans, Mark Ondrias, December 20, 2008
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 9, 2009
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Jen Payne on the FA of Whale Tail Pilates

Description 

Start within the corridor between Arniel and Lucia, it's the only route in there so you can't miss it. An interesting move off the ground will get you to an eventual left hand side pull with some reachy moves higher. After clipping the fourth and last bolt climb easy but slightly run out 5.2 to the anchors.


Protection 

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.



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By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Mar 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Getting up to the jug below the third bolt is the crux with tricky feet and a left hand pull that could be more difficult if you're short. You can go right or left above the 4th bolt with easy climbing either way. Runout, but no obvious loose rock.