On the direct north face, start low in the cave/overhang on very bad slopers. Pull up, pop to sharp but good edge, match, then work to the lip.Eds. this route has been orphaned is up for adoption....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I have to ask FG, what is your point of posting these problems? Your description is purposefully useless, presumably to keep these problems secret which I could completely understand and sympathize with. So why bother? I thought the point of this site was to "share information"? Just curious, since you don't want to share I wonder why you bother to submit?
I echo Wayne's comments. What exactly is the point? Except for a few Eldo regulars and those that have gotten tours of this secluded spot, nobody has any clue where this is.
FWIW, I was under the impression that the arete in the beta photo was put up a few years ago by Will LeMaire, Southpaw ~V4/5. In addition, I believe this is the southeast arete, but that could be easily confused in this disorienting place.
Sorry my info was not good enough. This is my first entry on MP and I'm just getting the hang of it. Now I have to question if I want to continue... Two negative comments in under 24 hours? Why not just ask me to put in better directions? I have nothing against sharing (wherever that idea came from); give a person some slack.
RE: CP ~ no it is not the southeast arete, it is the northeast one as stated. Perhaps it is ~V4, but only if you start on the holds head high. It could have been done before, but the lack of any evidence makes me wonder. Besides, the photo could be old.
I do agree, however, that beyond the few Eldo regulars, most people will not have a clue where this is. I'll have to think of how to give better directions.
RE: WC ~ the point of posting these problems was to let people know about them. I've wandered around many a woods because of some obscure photo or problem on MP or elsewhere. Sometimes I find what I am looking for, other times I don't. But currently, Eldo looks like it has very little to offer in the way of bouldering (at least on MP), and that just is not true. There are hundreds of boulders and problems waiting to be entered/discovered/re-discovered.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Dec 20, 2009
Not to dig further, BUTT. What's up with the username Flash Gordon. Not much facts to be taken seriously. IMO.
Edit, all your comments are confused and have no basis in personal reality. Please explain, man!
Flash - I agree about the lack of beta on mp.com for Eldo. There ARE hundreds of problems all over ECSP proper and just outside its boundaries. My intention was not to dissuade you from posting problems on mp.com. My feeling is this: if you are going to contribute something in an area many of us know and love, please take a couple extra minutes to do it right.
Will did do Southpaw from a sds on the flake quite few years ago when the Blue Whale area was developed and the grade is just one group of climbers' opinion ... nothing is set in stone. However, I did notice your description says surf the lip up and left for 15 feet. Maybe the grade difference is attributable to that difference. If it adds a lot to surf the arete 15 feet, maybe your grade is right. As for the direction the arete points, its confusing back there in a Blair Witch Project sense. My inner compass - which is normally pretty good - spins bigtime back there!
I agree that it's a confusing and convoluted mass of many many boulders back there, in and just out of the park proper. Many people know of some of these boulders, some people know of many of these boulders.
When I asked what your purpose was for posting maybe I should have been a little more specific. Clearly you want people to know about these problems, all I was trying to say is it's not much use to most people if you don't at least attempt a useful description for finding them. Although ECSP is not very big compared to many other state parks, a description of "hike hike and more hiking will get you here" for directions is totally useless.
All that being said, it would be great if there were more boulder problem descriptions for this area of the park, and you are correct in that there are few descriptions on MP.com. The challenge now for you FG would be to describe how to find this and maybe other boulders in this area (I completely agree that is not trivial).
RE: WC ~ Yes, I know the description "hike, hike, and more hiking will get you there" is no good. That is obvious. However, as I said above, and will say again, this is my first entry on MP. As such, I am unfamiliar with the "backend" database side. I don't want the boulder to show up under West Ridge, or some other section. Do I enter it as a route, a new area, etc. The site is not set up very well for individual boulders. Therefore, I put in "dummy" text to see how it would show up on the site. I hope this makes sense.... So of course the entry needs to be fixed.... The vagueness was not directed as much in how to get there, as I know exactly how to (and have since the mid-'90s) get there.
I'll work on the description.
RE: CP ~ I agree, taking a couple extra minutes to "do it right" is the proper thing to do. Please see above concerning the vagueness associated with the description.
I never said Will didn't do Southpaw. What I said was that this is not the southeast arete (which is a project and more in the V12 range), but the northeast one. There is no flake, nor has there ever been. The SDS begins on bad slopers, which is the crux.
Perhaps you are under the impression that I just found and did this problem/boulder. That is incorrect. I simply entered this into the database on Dec. 20.
RE: HC ~ What's wrong with my username? There are tons of random usernames all over MP. I'm kinda fond of it personally....
Flash Gordon (Peter).... For some reason I remembered a starting flake, maybe it was slopers. I honestly don't remember. In any event, I can guarantee you we're talking about the same boulder, as I have pictures of it, too. Like I said, directions were confusing for me back there, so maybe it is the northeast arete. If you did it many many years ago, then I would not be surprised if it was FA. Nice one, Peter!
I hope you will continue contributing. Deciding how to add The Blue Whale Area (or whatever you call it) would appear to be the crux, based on what approach you take. It would be awesome if you or anyone chose to add everything from The Musicals, down into the gullies and all the way up to The Blue Whale Area. So many classics! I'm very much in favor of it.
The best thing about starting over is when you delete these entries ... ALL the crabby comments will disappear - ha! Please don't take anything personally, it's just the intardweb.
"Southpaw" takes the little NE arete (you have labeled as Sei (V7-8) from as low as you can go, heel hook trickery, left hand slopers and a rad right hand crimp lead to a thrutch to the lip, move left and rock over for V4/5.
The arete left of Blue Whale (sawed down tree) is "White Whale Project" and has not been completed to my knowledge since I ripped off a big flake midway up. It surely goes and maybe you did this one.
The arching undercling highball seam on the South Face is a project, and will probably remain so until fallen trees at the landing are removed.
All the little 'mini angry man' problems and variations on the back of the boulder (right of Southpaw) were done, and all the slabs on the South and North faces have been climbed as well. Maybe you found a new line though. I'd be stoked to check it out! Any pics?
RE: AM ~ I'm not sure if you read the comments; the routes and boulder have been "orphaned".
I agree, most of these were done years ago (at least as far back as the late '90s when I was introduced to them).
I'll have to go back and see if I can't figure out some new heel hook trickery to make Sei/Southpaw easier; heels are required further up, but I don't recall using a heel directly from the sit. Maybe it was a high gravity day. ;)
How about instead of all you bitching about the post you update it with the correct location of the boulder. If you don't want it listed delete the location off of MP. I was in Eldo yesterday for about 7 or 8 hours around the Musical Boulders and this was a boulder that I really wanted to check out but alas no directions so I couldn't find it.
I have tried to find this boulder on 3 different occasions now but left empty handed every time:( Does any one have any insight on how to find it?! I understand some of you might want to keep this area hidden from the public, and the exploration aspect of climbing is part of what draws us all, but how about a clue? A Mountain Project scavenger hunt if you will. :)