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Elevation: 5,950 ft
GPS: 39.94195, -105.29945
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Shared By: Orphaned on Dec 20, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

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This description has been orphaned and is up for adoption.

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I've only been there once, but I'll try my best. Go along the Eldorado trail past where you'd hike down to the East Egg Boulder, passing a rocky outcrop with a nice outlook on the left. About a couple hundred feet, head downhill through some easy off-trail hiking until reaching a few boulders that may have chalk. The obviously large one is The Whale.

Per Dark Helmet: the approach takes 30 - 40 minutes. For reference, it took me 17 minutes after passing the Rincon Wall cutoff. The easiest way to find the Whale Boulder is to hike slightly past the turnoff on the Eldorado Trail until you reach a habitat restoration sign (see the photo) near a cluster of boulders. Turn around, walk ~65 paces back towards a clearing, and head off-trail down sloping gully angling back towards the restoration area. You'll see The Whale in the trees after about 100 meters.

Additional reference points I scoured from the depths of the internet that helped: Nightmare Block approach (The Whale is cut off is located shortly past the Nightmare Block but before the wildlife closure): hike up the Eldorado Canyon Trail as if going to Rincon Wall. Take the main road to the parking next to the Gill Block ~ 1 mile past the entrance. Walk up the road to the west 50 yards, and take the well traveled Eldorado Canyon Trail. Hike uphill for a ways past several switchbacks past a turnoff for some boulders on the left. Keep going on the main trail, pass 5 more switchbacks, and take note of the steep turnoff for Rincon Wall. Keep walking as the trail levels off for a half mile. Pass 4 short switchbacks, the trail levels off again and passes a blunt ridge where the Musical Boulders can be seen downhill to the left. Keep going a quarter mile, pass over a culvert where a spring crosses the trail, and continue for a few minutes through some boulders in the pines. When the trail starts to leave the trees, look up to the right, and the Nightmare Block can just barely be seen uphill 50 yards from the trail.

Another opinion on Whale Block approach beta: when walking along the Eldorado Trail in the nightmare block vicinity, there is a huge block with the "Trailside, V7", and some Will Lemaire scoop problems. From here, if you drop downhill off the trail and follow a shallow wash, you'll encounter the cluster of blocks with Will's Blue Whale problem and others. Continue down further, trend a tad left when walking downwards, and you should run into the Elegant Block. It sits about 50 yards uphill from the bolted Eldo Block.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whale Boulder (aka South Paw)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 8
Sei
Boulder
V8 7B
 15
Blue Whale
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sei
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Blue Whale
 15
V8 7B Boulder
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