Whacky V4
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Can't see much from this, but just find the boulde...
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Description Start on a good left hand edge under the prow with a right hand on a sloper and a high right foot. Work up the arete and top out.
Location This is the first problem you will see when coming up from the valley towards The Alcove boulders.
Protection A pad or two, good landing.
By TWAL Oct 24, 2010 rating: V6+
| Derek- I had done a low start on this boulder (left side sit) about 2000-2001, called it "Whacky", and thought it was about V7 or so. I don't believe there were any other ascents prior seeing the amount of cleaning I had done on this as well as other boulders in the area. I do know there were some folks climbing there a little after I had been(Rob and Andy?) as well as some others that were climbing there in the '80s, but as near as I could tell a lot of the stuff there that I did were 1st ascents due to the amount of cleaning. Would love to know what boulders people are climbing there, and I may have some more pics, video, or info, if interested. I loved this area, because I was always there alone, it's very secluded, and it's just great bouldering! (edit) I did think it was quite a bit harder than V4, but I do think I started a little different, feet under the roof to the left(?) does that sound right? I put down V6+ for the grade, but I remember thinking it was harder than that at the time. |
By andyscott From: Massachusetts Mar 17, 2011 rating: V7
| I thought V7 from the lower sit/crouch start. |
By erik kapec From: prescott, az Apr 16, 2013
| I did this with a left side-pull and right hand on a sloper. Heel hook with the right foot on almost nothing, and this definitely was all footwork...but am I missing something? I'm totally not a V6 climber. edit:Met a guy tom nonis, who mention a sit has been done from the right side, off the flake. Started it, and felt the flake move...its definitely ready to pop off. |
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