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> 03. Charlevoix
> Parc National d…
> Le Dôme
Wet Dreams
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 20
votes
Routes in Le Dôme
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Air Voyageur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astral S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Au bouleau mon homme T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Chapiteau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crazy Carpet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Côté obscur S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dérobade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dôme Deluxe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frimousse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fun Noir S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gaston Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gruyère T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jeu de gear T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Can T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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L'Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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L'Onglée T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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La Bibitte S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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La nébuleuse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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La vache folle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Le baiser de l'homme araignée T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le cormoran S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Le paradoxe des formes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nouvelle Vague T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Orage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passerelle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Patinoire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perdu dans l'espace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Point G T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soutien Gorge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Temps de cure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Variante d'Isabel 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zone Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Éclipse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Luc Martin & Co. 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,900 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Luc-514 on Jul 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Description
Sweet crack trending left, the start is a bit tricky but the route is brilliant and well protected.
P1 5.7, 50m
head to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge.
P2 5.9, 55m
Head up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system.
you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there).
Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it.
keep heading up and cross another bail anchor of sling+ring.
Head up through the cleft in the wall, this last portion before the anchor is committing and not obvious to protect but once you figure it out it's a breeze.
The route used to go on for another pitch or two but the rock up there is extremely unstable and should be avoided.
P1 5.7, 50m
head to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge.
P2 5.9, 55m
Head up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system.
you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there).
Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it.
keep heading up and cross another bail anchor of sling+ring.
Head up through the cleft in the wall, this last portion before the anchor is committing and not obvious to protect but once you figure it out it's a breeze.
The route used to go on for another pitch or two but the rock up there is extremely unstable and should be avoided.
Location
Head right from the approach trail, pass a couple clearing and spot a large left facing corner (Le Diédral), to its left an obvious left trending vertical crack!
Descent
From the top of the second pitch rappel STRAIGHT down to the ledge, eventually an anchor may be placed there to continue, pull your ropes straight down from there.
Traverse climbers right to the gap in the trees you came up, do a small rap to the end of pitch 1 belay station and head down.
Rappelling on an angle from the top to the P1 belay is a sure way to get your rope(s) stuck! beware.
Traverse climbers right to the gap in the trees you came up, do a small rap to the end of pitch 1 belay station and head down.
Rappelling on an angle from the top to the P1 belay is a sure way to get your rope(s) stuck! beware.
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