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Northeast Buttress
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Etude 
Flake Out 
Flakes of Wrath 
Flower of High Rank 
Johnny Quest 
Rock Hudson 
Spooky Spike 
Wet Dreams 

Wet Dreams 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar, 1974
Page Views: 1,504
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007
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AJ on Wet Dreams. Photo by Kia Ravanfar

Description 

This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.

Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.

The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.


Location 

You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.


Protection 

Finger to hand size cams.



Photos of Wet Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
The slot on Wet Dreams
The slot on Wet Dreams
Wet Dreams <br />Photo by Andy Diaz
Wet Dreams
Photo by Andy Diaz
Comments on Wet Dreams Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 26, 2007

Where is the crux of this not often done variation?

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 18, 2008

The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it...

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Aug 16, 2011

Found the pod a little disorienting...the exit a tad thought provoking. Nice exposure.

ETA: I agree. Beached whaleing-it into the slot after a series of good jams felt like the crux.