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Northeast Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Etude T 
Flake Out T 
Flakes of Wrath T 
Flower of High Rank T 
Johnny Quest T 
Rock Hudson T 
Spooky Spike T 
Wet Dreams T 

Wet Dreams 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar, 1974
Page Views: 1,869
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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AJ on Wet Dreams. Photo by Kia Ravanfar

Description 

This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.

Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.

The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.

Location 

You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.

Protection 

Finger to hand size cams.


Photos of Wet Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Wet Dreams Photo by Andy Diaz
Wet Dreams Photo by Andy Diaz
The slot on Wet Dreams
The slot on Wet Dreams
Wet Dreams
Wet Dreams

Comments on Wet Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 26, 2007

Where is the crux of this not often done variation?
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 18, 2008

The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it...
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Aug 16, 2011

Found the pod a little disorienting...the exit a tad thought provoking. Nice exposure.

ETA: I agree. Beached whaleing-it into the slot after a series of good jams felt like the crux.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Quite the physical route. The slot you get into is slanting towards the ground. You feel like you are constantly fighting the slot from spitting you out. I was breathing VERY hard after I got to the end of the finger rail traverse. Super fun.
By AJ
1 day ago

It's only 30' long, but inch for inch, this is a 5-star mega classic. What a wild and unique pitch.

I saw a guy gasping and cursing his way into the slot when I was just a kid, climbing Graham Crackers with my dad. I lived in fear of it for years after. I finally led it and of course loved it. I've done it 3-4x since and it's a thrill every time.

I'm sure most people do the Wet Dream in conjunction with the Flower, but I've always enjoyed tacking it on after Etude. The physical, intimidating climbing here is in shocking contrast to the delicate sequence on P1. 5 stars all the way in my book.
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