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 ADVANCED
Dream Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
Dry Ice S 
Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Long Lost Dreams 
Phantasmagoria T,S 
Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless aka New Route Right of A Brief History S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkles in Time S 

Wet Dreams 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Janet Robinson and Steve Sangdahl, 1997 (TR)
Page Views: 1,643
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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The upper right end of Dream Dome.

Description 

Wet Dreams climbs up a black streak about 15' right of Gully Washer. It has been retro-bolted and can now be done as a lead climb. It is the highest, right-most climb on the wall. It is not in D'Antonio's guidebook.

Protection 

About 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Wet Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Vilde nearing the anchors.
Vilde nearing the anchors.
John climbing Wet Dreams on TR.
John climbing Wet Dreams on TR.
Brian getting it done.
Brian getting it done.

Comments on Wet Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Quincy
Jul 26, 2007

This route appears to have been retro bolted. There's no chains or links on the anchor bolts, so you'd probably want to use the Gully Washer anchor to get down.
By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2008

I agree with Craig, it does look like this route was retro bolted and the anchor has one rap ring and a locking beaner on the other anchor so you can clean and lower off without using the Gully Washer anchor.
By Bracken
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

About 8 bolts to its own 2 bolt anchor. Very closely bolted in the upper section. I lead this without knowing what it is and thought it was really enjoyable. In my opinion, it's underrated here on MP. Perhaps it being bolted has improved the line.
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun route -- didn't even know what it was until I got on here (not in the guidebook). Definitely worth doing if you're in the area.
By Andy B
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed it. A great example of technique and balance over power. Great featured and textured rock. Fun.
By Cody Harrington
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very interesting climb. The climb looks positive from the ground, but I had to use a lot of compression and balance to complete it.