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Wet Dream 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rolofson/Wright/Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 8,179
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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Nate and fun with Photoshop.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun arete route that switches sides back and forth a few times. Start out with some fun overhanging 11c moves on jugs. Then move to some good vertical face climbing followed by interesting slab moves. The crux is near the top and is pulling a little roof/bulge on pretty thin holds. Challenging sequence to find, but a great one to figure out. Another Clear Creek classic.

Protection 

16 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. 60 meter rope reqiured to lower off and it is a stretch so tie a big knot in the end before lowering.


Photos of Wet Dream Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
slabby section before the crux overhang.
slabby section before the crux overhang.

Comments on Wet Dream Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

This is a really fun route!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 4, 2001

I agree that it's fun but it's still pretty chossy. And why is the anchor set in the middle of what appears to be a big flake?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 4, 2001

When I bolted this line, I tried to use the gear that Kurt Smith had originally placed. This was restricted to the last section of head wall. The anchor was his, but was reinforced with 1/2 inch bolts. I would agree, that as is often true of Clear Creek, the rock can vary from excellent to down right cruddy on the same route. But, for what it is worth, it is nice to have routes that those Denverites amongst us can jump on 20 to 30 minutes from work. If only it were Boulder Canyon, or better still, Siurana.
By Bryson Slothower
May 13, 2003

I thought this route was great because of the variety of moves one encounters, I wasn't expecting any slab climbing from the ground and thought I had already pulled the crux when I finnaly reached it. The excellent bolt job on this route was greatly appreciated, especially when I came flying off the crux!
By Craig Quincy
Jun 20, 2003

Using shoulder length slings before the first roof, at the end of the slab, and below the crux bulge helps to alleviate rope drag.
By Lon Black
Jul 24, 2005

Excellent line. It makes you think and is much more sustained than Curvaceous. I would say it's two letter grades harder than Curvaceous. Roof moves, arete climbing, a couple slabby sequences, definiteive crux followed by pretty sustained face above all make for a superb line. I just wish I could have done them all without falling. Maybe one day.
By Nate Weitzel
Jul 5, 2007

Added lowering hooks to the anchor of this route, now it is quite nice to just clip and lower off.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice line. I kept wanting to fight going left at the slab, but just give in. The rest is endurance. Technique wise, I don't think the cux is up high, maybe a pump crux.
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 8, 2008

How far do you go left at the slab? My partner stayed on the arete as where I basically palmed the arete with my right hand while standing up on my left foot on the blob. I saw a lot of chalk on something left which wasn't anywhere near curvaceous so I figure it's for this climb yet it's pretty far off the bolt line, anyone go up that way?

Fantastic line - Curvaceous had been my favorite at CCC until I got on this. So much going on with such a great variety.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jul 22, 2009

I saw that chalk out left on the slab, but I didn't go that way either. With that said, while the crux moves up higher were definitely harder, the slab scared the pants off me.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 20, 2010

@ tscupp
Did this route yesterday. You can stay just left of the arete, or far left of the arete (like 5-ft). Far left is more secure, but a fall would have you piss'n yourself, because the quickdraw is low and right and on the arete. So, you'll swing around the other side. Staying just left of the arete and pinching it is probably a harder slab move but a safer fall if you were to pitch (this is how I did it). A third alternative would be to use the holds both on the left and right side of the arete as you move upwards to the final jug, but this just looks HARD!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2012

Great route and definitely a classic. Slightly overhanging jug hauling on bullet hard stone. Everyone should do this!!
By nate post
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow! such a fun route. My new favorite in CCC. I had thought Curvaceous was good which I did for the first time an hour before getting on Wet Dream, and I think they are both Clear Creek classic's, but I give Wet Dream an extra gold star for just being so damn fun.
By Andrew Riley
From: Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh
May 9, 2013

Hey, I left a Gri-gri at the bottom of this climb on 5/8/13, checked today and it wasn't there. If you picked it up/found it, let me know and I'll buy you a six pack. - Andrew Riley 217-779-7779.