Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Don Wilson, Dave Wonderly, Warren Egbert 1989 |
Page Views: | 1,212 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Xavier Wasiak on May 7, 2013 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Another fun adventure route on the Western Spaces Wall. Western Spaces is one of the shortest routes on the wall and set up for rapping although you could top out after another pitch or so and do the walk off. Like some of the other routes on this wall, the rock quality varies and the climbing always keeps you engaged.
Pitch 1. 10- (120') From the left end of the ledge, climb up a right facing corner, escaping the corner to the left before the corner turns right. Climb upwards and slightly left to an obvious bolted anchor. One old, but fairly good looking bolt, protects some fun climbing on brittle flakes on this pitch.
Pitch 2. 10 (130') Diagonal right across the face passing a bolt to reach a shallow corner crack. Fun climbing up this for 20 or so feet then leads to more diagonal climbing (left this time) to the visible anchors. This pitch wanders a bit.
Pitch 3. 9 (120') Climb straight up the face and cracks angling right some. You have options on how you reach the next anchor, which is to the right and at a shallow left facing corner. The anchor is made up of four nuts.
Pitch 4. 11- (120') Climb the obvious crack passing a bolt and gingerly pulling the sporty crux on less than confidence inspiring flakes. Eventually you reach the last bolted belay and rappel anchor.
Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes. Pitch length were estimates and I don't think a 70 would get you all the way down.
The Brock and Swain guides have a decent topo for this route.
Pitch 1. 10- (120') From the left end of the ledge, climb up a right facing corner, escaping the corner to the left before the corner turns right. Climb upwards and slightly left to an obvious bolted anchor. One old, but fairly good looking bolt, protects some fun climbing on brittle flakes on this pitch.
Pitch 2. 10 (130') Diagonal right across the face passing a bolt to reach a shallow corner crack. Fun climbing up this for 20 or so feet then leads to more diagonal climbing (left this time) to the visible anchors. This pitch wanders a bit.
Pitch 3. 9 (120') Climb straight up the face and cracks angling right some. You have options on how you reach the next anchor, which is to the right and at a shallow left facing corner. The anchor is made up of four nuts.
Pitch 4. 11- (120') Climb the obvious crack passing a bolt and gingerly pulling the sporty crux on less than confidence inspiring flakes. Eventually you reach the last bolted belay and rappel anchor.
Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes. Pitch length were estimates and I don't think a 70 would get you all the way down.
The Brock and Swain guides have a decent topo for this route.
Location
On the right side of the Western Spaces Wall and on the far left side of a thin ledge that comes in from the right underneath Black Sun and Mr. Natural of the Desert, there is a shallow right facing corner (Start).
Protection
We took a good selection of gear including nuts, small cams, BD cams up to a #3, and doubles of .6" to 1.25" as Handren's guide suggested. That seemed to work fine and gear was mostly adequate. First, second, and fourth anchors are bolted and the third is made up of four equalized nuts. All stations were set up for rappel. The webbing is weathered.
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