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Whistling Wabash, The 

Westbound Willy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D. Mabe, June 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Westbound Willy.

Description 

This Sedona style route is the grungy and crumbly dihedral left of Mulligan Stew that will only continue to get better as it cleans up. Despite its crusty exterior, it still kicks up some fun movement near the top. Finish with an exciting mantle to a great belay ledge. Begin as for Mulligan stew, clip the first bolt, but head left up the stone escalator to the base of the corner. The pro can be good, but careful attention should still be made in where you place it or you will be catching the Westbound!


Location 

Left of Mulligan Stew.


Protection 

C4s from #.5-#3 plus a few large stoppers should do the trick. A small alien or nut placement is nice as a directional in a horizontal right before mantling the ledge.



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By J. Hickok
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Won't ever do that one again unless I hear that somebody has pressure washed the nastiness out of the finger crack. Maybe the rock will clean up, but I don't know about that piss in the crack! Not recommended - too bad because the movement is nice up high. I've climbed plenty of nasty cracks before, but this one is in the worst condition.

Revision (found this in comments for main page) - this explains the nastiness in the crack: "A few days ago, at sunset, we witnessed approximately 500 bats fly out of the hole with all the chirping on Westbound Willy. Quite a site and certainly wouldn't want to be up on route when this happens again! Stick around to see it." (original poster: hamlincheese)

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 29, 2013

I cleaned out most of the crack today on repel. It is fairly clean, and honestly i am surprised to see only one star for this climb. Thing looks fuckin splitter!