Pitch one is easier w/ only poor protection the first 40' then creative protection the rest of the way. Interesting movements. Pitch two has great protection the whole way w/ a well defined crux near the top.
The Prune Incident- In '96 a climber set a #1 Camalot off the belay station then went up clipping pitons the whole way. He fell at the crux and every piton failed with only the camalot catching. Apparently he almost hit a woman starting the first pitch. Gendarme climb shop displays some of those pitons.
Location
On the west side of South Peak. To the climbers left of Face of 1000 pitons and Le Gourmet
The Prune is a 4 pitch route that can be done in two long pitches with a 60m rope. It goes all the way to the top of Back To The Front.
P1: 5.6 Rish. 60 feet. From the ground climb towards tree on ledge above getting gear where you can, not necessarily everywhere.
P2: 5.7. 60 feet. Best pitch of the route. Behind the belay, climb a steeper pitch up cracks with the crux of the route coming in the last 15 feet before Old Man's Traverse Ledge and the belay. A number of folks have broken an ankle on the small ledge below the crux by failing to adequately protect this final crack. Belay from large pine tree on Old Mans Traverse Ledge
P1 and 2 can easily be linked with a 60m rope and a standard Seneca rack.
P3 and P4: 5.6ish. Climb the easier ground behind the belay tree and left of the face above you. I have never done this as 2 seperate pitches but the guide calls it 2. You want to use a few long slings to avoid rope drag. These pitches are obscure, fun and guaranteed to never have a line!
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