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South Peak - West Face
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Thais 

5.6

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 268 page views

Submitted By: John Peterson on Jul 29, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...


Description 

This excellent climb ascends the corner just left of Conn's West. It starts in the center of the wall and eventually traverses left into the top of the corner.

P1: climb up the center of this face with no particular line. Aim for base of an obvious chimney. 80', 5.5.

P2: Climb the suprisingly enjoyable chimney. Where it pinches off, step left and continue up the same crack system to a belay alcove. 80', 5.6.

P3: This is the business. I suppose this is a Seneca 5.6 but it had me a lot more gripped than many harder routes. Traverse left on the steep face to the big corner and climb up to a belay above the difficulties. There's plenty of pro but hanging out on the steep face to put it in was definitely exciting. The hardest part for me was finding the easiest line - there's chalk all over the place. I wound up going straight left from the fixed pin above the belay to the corner, ignoring the temptation to climb up prematurely. 50', Seneca 5.6.

P4: up to an obvious weakness, left along the ledge and then up through a tree to the top. 100', 5.4.


Location 

Start at the center of the face just left of Conn's West.


Protection 

Standard Seneca rack



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By Mark Cushman
From: Erie, CO
Oct 22, 2007

On P3 you can escape right around the corner to end up on the ledge with the rappel tree and the end of Westpole. I've done the escape a few times to avoid climbing the gully to the summit.