Bob Batterman at the crux of West Pole. The best 5...
Description
One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.
P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear.
P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second. Follow a left-facing corner to a crack and then belay from rings.
Location
West Pole begins at the same place as Old Man's and Conns West.
Protection
Like most Seneca routes, West Pole protects well with passive gear. A double set of nuts and some hexes works fine. There are probably some pitons on the route; maybe some even of WWII vintage.
One day when I was climbing a route nearby, two teenage girls headed up the trail and started racking up for Westpole. One of their fathers was a climber and had given them just enough gear to do Old Man's Route (5.2) - the route they TOLD HIM they were headed out to do. Instead they climbed Westpole with five nuts and two hexes!
I think I left a C3 cam in the bottom of the roof this morning.
By Jeremy P Franz From: Medina, Ohio Aug 10, 2008 rating: 5.7+
Great route, the direct finish (5.8) is exposed and enjoyable.
By dinglestyle From: Catonsville, MD Feb 20, 2009 rating: 5.8
Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO Feb 20, 2009
Wait a minute...I thought West Pole was rated 5.6!
Seneca Rock Guidebook, Webster & Pleiss, 1975 Submitted By: Pete Gallagher on Feb 20, 2009
(notes from my 1975 guidebook)
Sorry, old geezer will shut up now......get off my lawn!!!