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South Peak - West Face

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Acksaw 
Agony 
Back to the Front 
Banana 
Black Mamba 
Bring on the Nubiles 
Broken Neck 
Burn, The 
Burning Tendons 
Cockfight 
Conn's West 
Cottonmouth - Venom 
Critter Crack 
Debbie 
Easy Over 
Ecstasy Junior 
Front C 
Green Wall 
Gunsight to South Peak 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 
Le Gourmet Direct 
Lox 
Manual Dexterity 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 
Monkey See Monkey Do 
Neck Press 
Old Ladies Route 
Old Man's Route 
Pedro's Problem 
Pleasant Overhangs 
Prune 
Sidewinder 
Sunshine 
Thais 
Thais Direct 
Tomato 
Traffic Jam 
Triple S 
West Pole 

South Peak - West Face

Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Views: 17,270 page views

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Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...


Description 

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)


Getting There 

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route   5.2     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gunsight to South Peak   5.3     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Gunsight to South Peak Direct   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Conn's West   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Ecstasy Junior   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Thais   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   
Critter Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Front C   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Traffic Jam   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Pleasant Overhangs   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   
Green Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   
Prune   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
West Pole   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
The Burn   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Tomato   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet   
Triple S   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet   
Back to the Front   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Sunshine   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Cottonmouth - Venom   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
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Bob Batterman at the crux of West Pole. The best 5.7 roof west of the Gunks.

West Pole 5.7+  WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear. P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of South Peak - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the West face of the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the West face of the South Peak

More Routes on the west face of the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak

Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak

Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Route.

BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...

Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.<br /><br />

Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.