According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.
The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents).
Location
Castor is left of the twin finger/hand crack systems located beside a large boulder.
The second pitch is quite nice. Follow right facing ramp till it ends and continue up on good holds to reach a thin crack to a small roof. Passing the small roof is 5.9-, and there are cold shuts at the top to descend.
Also, combination of Castor (or Pollux) with Orange Aid makes for a cool 5.10 "diretissima" of the East Face.
By dinglestyle From: Catonsville, MD Feb 20, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c
The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct.
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