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Kaymoor

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Kaymoor 


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Location: 38.046, -81.06841 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
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Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here


Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)

or:

Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.


Climbing Season


73 Total Routes


['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',16],['5.11',21],['5.12',26],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kaymoor:
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Butcher's Branch
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Fairtracer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   Butcher's Branch
Tony the Tiger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Seven Eleven Wall
Mo' Betta' Holds   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Butcher's Branch
Out of the Bag   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Rico Suave Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Butcher's Branch
Dining at the Altar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   White Wall
Preparation H   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Rico Suave Buttress
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rico Suave Buttress
Thunderstruck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wall
Pettifogger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   White Wall
Slash and Burn   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Devil Doll   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   The Glory Hole
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   The Glory Hole
Blood Raid   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Glory Hole
Fuel Injector   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Browse More Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Jess spanning thru the roof traverse. <br />Photo:Dan Brayack

Scenic Adult 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
This route is full value! A must do if you are in this area! Start by climbing up the arete, wandering from the left to right side. Pull through a small overhang and head up toward the larger overhang on the right side of the arete. When you reach the top overhang, pass it on the left face, then hand traverse back right to the peak. Heel hook and crank up onto the slabby right face using some shallow horizontals and make a reachy clip on the arete (crux). Climb up the slab for a few move...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Kaymoor Add Comment
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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010

For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.