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Eat My Dust 

5.11b

   

FA: Gary Beil, Greg Flerx, 1992
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 52 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 24, 2009


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Description 

Clip the bolt next to the shuts on Exoduster. Make a dyno to 2 good crimps and traverse left out around the roof. Gain a stance and traverse back right to reach the next bolt. A small cam (blue or green alien size) can be placed in the horizontal in the roof to reduce the fall potential before clipping the bolt above the roof. Climb straight up using very small crimps and making good use of an interesting diagonal sloping ledge, very unique climb for the New. This climb is pretty sustained for the grade and the top portion is a bit dirty. It's surprising that this extension doesn't see more traffic given the popularity of Exoduster.


Location 

second pitch of Exoduster


Protection 

4 bolts, shuts



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 25, 2009

Agreed. As far as I'm concerned, this route IS Exoduster, or Exoduster-enhanced. I mean, it goes to the top of the formation, follows a natural line of travel, and is continuously engaging. What's not to like? The crux after the chains on Exoduster is--I hate to say it--fairly height dependent. If you're short, the moves requires a dyno. The top crux is decidedly technical, and aesthetic.

Certainly deserves more traffic.