This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect hand crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner (5.10?).
Location
The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.
Protection
The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic.
Some notes on the climb: This easily protects with a set of stoppers, I only placed 1 cam (yellow alien on the traverse), and I tend to sew it up! All the placements are textbook. Also, this climb is likely harder for someone shorter. I'm 5'11, and I could reach most of the key holds and avoided the chalked up intermediates. I can see why some shorter folks that I know had more difficulty with this route.
By camhead From: Columbus, OH Apr 19, 2009 rating: 5.11+
I disagree with the route description calling the opening moves a "hand crack." There is maybe one hand jam just off the ground, and that is it. The middle section took great 1 and 2 camalots, and at the middle rest stance you can sew up the seam with microstoppers. One of the best single pitch trad climbs I've done.
I'm 5'3" and didnt find this route to be at all height dependent. I remember getting through the long moves with some high backsteps. This is one of the best pitches at the New or anywhere really. Do it.
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