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Beauty Mountain

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Brain, The 
Burning Buttress 
Garbage Wall 
Genocide Cave 
Middle Beauty 
Ram's Head 
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Thunder Buttress 

Beauty Mountain  


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Location: 38.0508, -81.03146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 102,572
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
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Nuttalburg Mine Entrance. Follow the dirt road pa...

Description 

Awesome place to climb.

Became popular in the early 1980s, as one of the original climbing destinations in the NRG.Located in the north portion of the gorge it faces south-west and it 3/4mi long and averages 60 to 120 feet tall. Beauty is best known for its crack, but over the past 10 years many hard sport lines have been established here.

Ram's Head is a beautiful scenic overlook that inspires visitors that aren't climber to do the 15 min hike(a long hike for the NRG) to get the awesome views of the Lower New River.

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area. Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.

Getting There 

Contiue past Nuttal and keep driving until you get to smallest Post office you've ever seen, take right contiue for 5 min, turn left on small gravel near top of cliff, hike in

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

67 Total Routes

['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',15],['5.11',13],['5.12',15],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beauty Mountain:
Happy Hands   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Thunder Buttress
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Beauty
Spiderwand   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
Brain Tweezers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Brain
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Burning Buttress
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Burning Buttress
Rod Serling Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 75'   Burning Buttress
Welcome to Beauty   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 120'   Ram's Head
Chasin' the Wind   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Middle Beauty
Right Son of Thunder   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Thunder Buttress
The Will To Power   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Burning Buttress
Steve Martin's Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
M.E.N.S.A.   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Brain
Disturbance   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Genocide Cave
Concertina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Thunder Buttress
Chunky Monkey   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Brain
Chorus Line   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   Burning Buttress
Green Envy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Genocide Cave
Super Mario   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 40'   Super Mario Boulder
Browse More Classics in Beauty Mountain

Featured Route For Beauty Mountain
Drew Hayes focused up on M.E.N.S.A.

M.E.N.S.A. 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Brain
Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back ri...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Beauty Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
The view from beauty mtn. is beautiful.
The view from beauty mtn. is beautiful.
Old Coal Tipple.  Follow the dirt road past the Su...
Old Coal Tipple. Follow the dirt road past the Su...
Old Coal Conveyor.  Follow the dirt road past the ...
Old Coal Conveyor. Follow the dirt road past the ...

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