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Bridge Buttress
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Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
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Mayfly T 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 
Mega Magic S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 
Penalty Situation T,TR 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Zag T,TR 

Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Houck, Ruana, MaGuire '90
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

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Nuria Anguita-Bates on the scary upper slab crux.

Description 

Starts with 5.11- crimps and continues up to second bolt, then switches to 5.10+ big moves on drity jugs with bad feet until you get back into 5.11- laybacks on sharp crimps then in the rux section where you have to squeeze the juice out of a sloper with your left hand and stand up on your right foot (hip height) to gain a crimp that you can feel comfotable with. then pull up to no-hands rest and relax because you are about to pump out again on the slippery upper slab section(5.10+ 5.11-). Pull one especially reachy move on the slab to gain a better hold and clip the anchors from a decent ledge.


Location 

Second fully bolted sport climb west of access stairs, just left of Team Machine.

Protection 

6 Bolts to Anchors.


Photos of Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd Raine setting up during the crux.
Ladd Raine setting up during the crux.
Nuria Anguita-Bates setting up for the crux and looking burly.
Nuria Anguita-Bates setting up for the crux and lo...
Ladd Raine doing a little route finding.
Ladd Raine doing a little route finding.

Comments on Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) Add Comment
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By Aaron Moses
From: Abingdon, Va
3 days ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Some very nice face climbing on the first half, but the upper slab isn't nearly as good as it's neighbor. I did the crux differently than the description by matching the sloper then face climbing straight up without any high steps. Still no hard than 12a.