West Wasn't Won on Salad  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Seth working past the second bolt.

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb and belay off the boulder. Good pockets work up and traverse out under the roof (the chicken way). Otherwise, you can take it straight up. Just at the point out of the roof section, look for the valuable knee bar rest, which is pretty elusive. Finishing up with good pump, tearing through the great holds up for a wild dynamic finish. The last hold is considerably better on the left side.

Location 

Start on the top of the Salad Boulder.

Protection 

Bolts, Chain anchors.

Belayers note: Best practice is to belay off the boulder. Look for the safety bolt on the wall, to clip into to avoid getting jerked off the boulder during a fall, especially during the first and second bolts, due to a swing back into the boulder. On the upper section, you can unclip, as you are far less likely to deck your climber.

Lowering: watch out for the tree/bush that you come down into.