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DescriptionThe West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated. Getting ThereFrom Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Stronghold:
Ewephoria 5.7 Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 750 feet Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Moby Dick 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II Whale Dome
Isle of You 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 170 feet Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock
Mystery of the Desert 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead
Ides of Middlemarch 5.9+ Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Absinthe of Mallet 5.9+ Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Unknown (right of stampede) 5.10a Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
The Peacemaker 5.10a Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
The Climb Too Tough To Die 5.10a PG13 Trad, Sport, 6 pitches Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Cragaholic's Dream 5.10a/b Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Squaretop
Dem Bones 5.10 R Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 660 feet, Grade III Whale Dome
Fire in the Hole 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Isle of You (Ewe) : Rad Rock
Warpaint 5.10c PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 680 feet, Grade III Westworld Dome
Get The Flock Out Of Here 5.10+ Trad, 5 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Tombstone Crack 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet The Tombstone
Stiletto 5.10+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Tombstone
Stampede 5.11a Sport, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
unknown (left one) 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mallethead
Coati Corner 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Westworld Dome
Sheep Thrills 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Crisis Center
Featured Route For West Stronghold
Old School Executioner 5.12+ AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Tombstone
Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climb...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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