West Streak  5.12a/b

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Type:  Sport, 90 pitches, 1 feet Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  Grant Farquhar, Nov 2005 Submitted By:  Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 27, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A very fun route, long and sustained. Called 12a (7a+) in the book, consensus seems to be settling closer to 12b ... you decide. :) There's a pretty tricky move down low around bolt 3 (probably the single hardest move), but there are several other sequences that keep you honest as you climb up as well.

There are 2 possible starts: more directly up, climbing a right facing shallow corner, or from the right, traversing in below the real start of the line. Everyone I've seen do it climbs in from the right up the first 2 bolts and traverses left along the obvious break to the large hueco below the 3rd bolt. Its good to stick clip this bolt, really, or clip when coming down from a neighboring route if possible.

Location 

Right of the main area on White Mountain, walk just about 15m right to the boulders you climb up to get to The Phoenix area. West Streak starts past these boulders, and just past Cave Man. There's an obvious large hueco just below the third bolt. Climb up and right; the line that crosses and moves left is another great 12b(c?), but West Streak keeps trending right through the upper face on the right.

Protection 

Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor