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 ADVANCED
Swan Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Route T 
Bay Tree Crack T 
Bobcat Crack T,TR 
Claude's Delight T 
Grant's Crack T,TR 
Hanging Flake T 
Lena's Lieback T 
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 
Oak Tree Flake T 
Penelope's Problem T 
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 
Pin Scar Seams T 
Swan Slab Chimney T 
Swan Slab Gully T 
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 
Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
Unnamed Face Route TR 
Unnamed Seam TR 
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 
V-Crack T,TR 
West Slabs TR 

West Slabs 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: N/A
Season: All year
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: Brian Snider on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Susan on a 5.7 line, West Slabs.

Description 

Great place to learn slab and friction climbing. Routes from 5.6-5.8. Could be longer so do laps and find a harder line each time.

Location 

Obvious slab left of oak tree flake and swan slab chimney. To set an anchor hike up left side of climb then move right along ramp to a medium sized pine tree. This climb can be seen from the road and is popular with Yosemite guides and first timers and may be crowded.

Protection 

Top rope only. Bring long slings to anchor off tree above slab.


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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are many different starts and lines to follow; most are above 5.6 in difficulty now that many of the holds have peeled off over the years. The center line is fairly typical and is realistically more like 5.8 than 5.6. The right edge, nearest Bobcat Crack, is close to the 5.6 level if the best combination of holds is found. A worthwhile slab for practice.
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Nov 21, 2012

The polish on this slab is getting ridiculous. Not really a beginners top rope.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very slippery indeed. Good place for a TR solo to do laps. More fun that way.

On the left side of the slabs before the mossy part, there are some much steeper sections that are much harder, with terrible feet. Very slippery start with a bouldering type move next and a topout onto slab.

5.6 - 5.7ish moves. The bottom seems the most slippery, and is usually the crux with a bulge (bulgey? bulgy? bolki.) start. Super easy in the middle, with a bulge at the top on either side of the slab.

Dress like a clown and TR solo it to make the millions of tourists who walk by think you're on drugs.
By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This slab was easy to climb. Mostly smearing and trusting your feet.
We have been climbing for about 6 months now and this was a nice and easy warm up. Do not get discouraged if you can't figure it out at first, keep trying, it's fun.
To set up the top rope, you walk around to the left up and put your rope around a tree.
By Larry Hignight
Dec 1, 2013

The tree at the top of the slab is dead and should not be used as an anchor. There are some good boulders that you can use for an anchor, but they're at the other end near the walk on/off some forty feet away.