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West Side

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Around Right 
Ball Chopper 
Cape of Good Hope 
Cape Point 
Chucky Bill 
Excited Delirium 
Finding Forester 
LA Woman? 
Tons of Fun 
Vertical Alluvium 
Via Manolo 
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West Side 

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Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 20, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The main cliff on the West side of the canyon.
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The west side of Lemon hosts several good climbs. Most the climbing is bolt protected, but bring a light rack, as many routes are mixed. The grades tend to be more moderate than on the East Side. Expect to get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There 

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, go left across a bridge and through the campground following the dirt road to the Transfer Park Trailhead. Hike back through the Transfer Park Campground and down a short trail to a knotted fixed rope that leads to the base of the cliff.

Per jed botsford: the correct way to access the west side of this climbing area is to park at the trailhead and then walk down to the climbing area through the campground. Please do not park in the campground. If someone is camping in site 21 which is where you access the climbing area, please be respectful and talk with them about what you are going to do. DO NOT just walk through the site with out acknowledging the campers.

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Side:
Finding Forester   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tons of Fun   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bonsai   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Vertical Alluvium   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Chucky Bill   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cape of Good Hope   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hymanizer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cape Point   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Via Manolo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Slopestyle   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Ball Chopper   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
NoJo   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in West Side

Featured Route For West Side
Halfway up Chucky Bill.

Chucky Bill 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  CO : Durango : ... : West Side
Climb past a few bolts to reach a left-facing crack. Follow the crack to a small roof/bulge. The crack widens and leads through the steep section, then continue up the wall passing the occasional bolt supplemented with some gear. There is a fixed chain anchor at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on West Side Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By Wombat
From: Boulder, co
Jul 12, 2009

The Transfer Park management made it clear that they do not want climbers walking through the campsites to access the West Side Walls. The management staff has already encountered hostility from climbers which creates a very poor image of the local climbing community. Please use the trail from the major parking area. If anyone wants better access, please contact the San Juan National Forest to submit requests.

By Brad Brandewie
Jul 14, 2009

What trail?
Can you give us a description or draw us a map?


By Ben Kiessel
Jul 14, 2009

Why don't we put up a tyrolean and then have all of the access from the east? Thoughts?


By Wombat
From: Boulder, co
Jul 16, 2009

I haven't walked the actual trail yet. It is supposed to be from the large parking area and leads to the top of the West side cliffs. Not very much longer than walking the road. I will try to get more information this weekend.

By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009

The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Mar 25, 2010

If you park at the trailhead parking, the "Management" can f@#k the f@#k off. Be nice to them as you walk wherever you want. As long as you are not camping there, you owe them nothing. Sometimes these campground hosts are from Texas and really think they own the world. Ask them to show you the statute in the official rule book or tell them to call the Forest ranger who can issue you a ticket (there is only one in the entire San Juan).

By jed botsford
Jun 14, 2013

The correct way to access the west side of this climbing area is to park at the trailhead and then walk down to the climbing area through the campground. Please do not park in the campground. If someone is camping in site 21 which is where you access the climbing area, please be respectful and talk with them about what you are going to do. DO NOT just walk through the site with out acknowledging the campers.

The FS is currently looking at a alternative approach which will alleviate the need for going through the campground. Until this new approach is in place, be repectful and set a good example.

By Kevin Byrne
Jul 6, 2013

Hey there!

Is it possible to set up top ropes on the more moderate stuff without leading them first?

Tough to tell from the description of the approach whether you can access the top of the band from the bottom or before you get down???

We have some limited sport leading experience, but it sounds like some of the grades here are a little sketchier, and I don't want to get in over my head.


By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jul 6, 2013


It is very easy to get to the top of the cliffs and drop some top-ropes down. There is a trail that heads up towards the top before you get to the fixed line that takes you down.


By Kevin Byrne
Jul 6, 2013

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up!

So this fixed line to get down - can you go back up it or do you just top out on your last climb of the day to leave???

Thanks again!

By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jul 7, 2013

Yes, you can just climb up the fixed line to get back up. From there, you can walk back to the top and grab your anchors. It's a short, easy scramble to get up and down the fixed line. About 20'.

By infiniteforests
From: Durango,CO
Aug 14, 2013

I found a sport route on the west side that doesn't fit the description of the listed routes. It was located maybe 150- 200 feet upstream from the top of the gully. Short route, maybe 30 feet long with three bolts to a bolted anchor, and it felt like it was a 5.7 to me. Does anyone know what this is?

Unknown sport route?
Unknown sport route?

By MikeWilkinson
From: Cortez, CO
Aug 18, 2013

infiniteforests– I think it's "Around Right", but I'm not sure either. I actually climbed it with my gf just a few days ago, and found myself a bit confused too.

As you go through the route descriptions on MP, it does talk about climbing out of the valley, and then climbs proceeding it are in the 5.7-5.8 range. The one in your photo was the only one that I found in that particular area, so I wasn't sure what it was either.

Oct 14, 2013

Myself and Torrey Rodgers bolted this in 2004 or 2005, it was never given a name. If I remember correctly, Torrey did the FA and we felt the route was 5.7 - Tim may have named this Around Right in his guidebook.