The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.
Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.
Gear to 1"
From: The land of steady habits
Oct 11, 2013
the anchor is fine considering you can rest and place gear before running it to the anchor
|By Dan Griffiths|
Oct 21, 2013
The start from the deck is hard. Possibly upper 12 range, but I've never seen anyone do it. However, someone with skinny little fingers will cruise it with nice little finger locks. From the block to the left, the first couple moves are every bit of 10+, probably more like 11a/b...and the pro is real small there.
Apr 6, 2014
I sent the direct start to this a couple years ago. Protected the first moves by stacking some itty bittys. It is strenuous. 5.11 maybe but only for a couple moves. Fun route!