Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 78,170 total · 406/month
Shared By: Joseph Myers on May 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A fun back country route. Just stay on the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing on the best granite.

Location Suggest change

There are two popular options for approaching the west ridge of Mt. Conness.

Option 1: (3-4 hours) Start from Sawmill Campground and follow a climber's trail that leads up to a sandy plateau just east of Mt. Conness.  Head up towards Mt. Conness and aim for a notch at 37.96331, -119.31895 in which you can then descend west on scree to the base of the climb. 

Option 2: (2 hours Lower Young Lakes).  This option is good for camping at Young Lakes, which requires a backcountry permit.  Head north (downhill) following a stream and follow its fork east then north (now going uphill) until you reach a meadow in which you can see Mt. Conness.  Head up the bowl towards the scree field, then up the scree to the high point of the scree beneath the West Ridge route.

Protection Suggest change

if you plan on roping up for the whole climb, just bring a regular rack...Most of the climb can be soloed or simul-climbed at easy albeit moderate 5th class high country climbing.

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