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East Huey Spire
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West Ridge  T 

West Ridge  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ehrin Irvin, Zachary Lesch-Huie, Jim Toman
New Route: Yes
Season: Late Summer
Page Views: 1,710
Submitted By: themostdirect on Oct 18, 2009

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Zach cleaning cracks and plugging gear on the fun ...

Description 

After locating the gully on the southwestern side of East Huey, start making your way up it or the moss slabs to it's left. Your goal is the eventual arrival at the notch between East and Middle Huey Spires. It may be wise to rope up for sections of this approach if the moss is wet or the gully is icy. To gain the actual start we had a few very short technical roped pitches.

P1) The beginning of the climb is easily identified as a wide easy corner at the notch. Move up this corner and continue climbing the mossy face to a small ledge. Look for a nut marking the last rap. (60m)

P2) Climb out through flakes and face trending up past a large blocky system on the left. Make your way towards a large weakness above. Note the slung horn overhead for the rap. (60m) Move belay above loose rock in the weakness to next face.

P3) Shoot up and out the fun cracks (5.9), aiming for the top and easier climbing. (60m)

P4) Easy fifth class takes you along the ridge to the summit block.

Descend the route.

Location 

Head around the left side of East Huey Spire from the Meadows, shooting straight up the grassy slope once you see the opportunity to go around the tower. Avoid excessive talus hopping.

Once you reach the gully spilling out with snow you've found the start.

Protection 

A standard alpine rack will do. Extra nuts and bail tat may be advisable. There are fixed rap stations in the gully.


The fixed stations in the gully were already in place when we climbed the route (I don't carry many pins on my alpine rack), but we found no traces of ascent or descent anywhere on the West Ridge/Face.


Photos of West Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
West Ridge of East Huey Spire.  The route follows ...
BETA PHOTO: West Ridge of East Huey Spire. The route follows ...
Ehrin Irvin finishing the summit scramble on East ...
Ehrin Irvin finishing the summit scramble on East ...
Ehrin climbing on the third pitch.
Ehrin climbing on the third pitch.

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