Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Whiplash T 

West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.93325, -105.28897 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,314
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Christa Cline at the crux of the first pitch.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.

Some may call this section of the ridge, the North Buttress. It does seem somewhat distinct from the rest of the West Ridge. Descents off the top can be done generally going left to the gully between The West Ridge & Rincon.

Note, there is still loose rock in sections here. Consider a helmet. Don't forget good judgment. If you come play here, you may be smiling for days.

There are many fine routes in this section of the West Ridge. Routes here vary from 1 to 3 pitches in length. These include: the fun Knight's Move, 5.7; the devious Purple Haze, 5.9; the varied Chockstone, 5.10a - don't short-change yourself with only 1 pitch; Laughing at the Moon, 5.10b; the exquisite Prince of Darkness, 5.11a; the technical Jericho, 5.11c; Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the impressive Ministry of Fear, 5.11d vs; among others.

This is a traditionally-protected area so bring your rack if you visit this section.

For you history buffs, there is an interesting story about how the bold, Alec Sharp spent a sleepless night prior to firing off his intimidating Ministry of Fear in the old publication Bolder Boulder. Many of us ordinary folks with real jobs might spend a sleepless night before putting up a 5.9 s or 5.10 s route.

Again, it's worth the walk.


Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.


31 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
Fading Light   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Sirens of Titan   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Purple Haze   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Born Under Punches   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chockstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 165'   
Friends in High Places   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Laughing at the Moon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Whiplash   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Chock Suey   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Between the Cracks   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Muscular Dystrophy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Prince of Darkness   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Jericho   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Superstone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Ken Heiser leading at the crux on a shady, cool morning. Ken linked this pitch and Laughing at the Moon for a high quality pitch.

The Bat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
Start as for Muscular Dystrophy, but where MD cuts left 12' up from the handcrack to a finger crack, place a 2" or 2.5" cam and cut ever so slightly left to a flake and seam. A questionable medium nut can go behind the flake, and up and high right some micro cams or a small TCU can be placed with a little reach, in an open spot in the seam. This is visible from the ground. Move up past those moves (10a, crux?) to a stance where you can reach around to the right and s...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Comments on West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 25, 2007
CONDITION REPORT 

From ECSP: There has been a major rock slide on the Rincon talus slope so please use extreme caution when crossing to the Rincon routes.