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This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
30 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
Bushwack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
Fading Light 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Sirens of Titan 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Purple Haze 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Born Under Punches 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Fade To Black 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Chockstone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 165'
Friends in High Places 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Laughing at the Moon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Whiplash 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Chock Suey 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Between the Cracks 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Muscular Dystrophy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Prince of Darkness 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Jericho 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Superstone 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Ministry of Fear 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a X Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Friends in High Places 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
The route starts about 10 feet to the right of Purple Haze. (On the upper section of the West Ridge)P1 - Start up a crack in the middle of the face. This pitch is fairly easy (6). Go past a small tree stump. Belay at the ledge.P2 - I almost want to give this a Serious rating. It begins with a couple hard 5.9 pinchy moves. There's really no pro on the direct line to start the pitch, but if you really want to you can barely get a stopper in crack around a small corner on the rig...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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