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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Five Fang Overhang T 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T,S 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express  

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Location: 39.93239, -105.28874 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.

Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.

Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.

To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.

Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.

Note, there is some loose rock in the area.

Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.


Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

62 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',6]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express:
Fine Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Funeral March   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
X   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Xanadu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Positively Fourth Street   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Air Mail   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Zap Snack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Zip Code   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Parallels   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Tango   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Terminal Velocity   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bit by Bit   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
The Formula   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Iron Pony   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Foxtrot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Crazy Fingers   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Featured Route For West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
A send of Crazy Fingers.

Crazy Fingers 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...
Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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