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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
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Critter Crack T 
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Debbie T 
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Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
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Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
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Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
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Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

West Pole Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Ebner, Dennis Grabnegger, and John Markwell (from Barnes, 2nd ed)
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Kristan Markey on Sep 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Left-facing finger crack arches into a sustained fist and off-width crack. Loose block about half-way up that would be a great hold. Move right onto a balancy position to avoid (the hands are good, just find them),then back into the crack. Even the topout is fun!


From the West Pole belay/rappel rings look up at the crack and right facing corner. Or look 20 ft left from Conn's West rap tree.


Standard Seneca rack plus a few larger pieces (1-2 BD #4s) for the off-width sections. Takes good gear including hexes.

After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.

Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.

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