|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Gary Colliver and Mike Cohen, 1972|
|Submitted By:||Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008|
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|Comments on West Pillar||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Redwood City
Apr 9, 2013
|In the Reid & Falkenstein, 1983 guide book it says the original 5.8 route is by Colliver & Cohen in 1972 and the 5.9/10 variation was put up by Alan Bartlett and Don Reid in 1979. Interestingly, the original rating was at 5.9 and then it was upgraded to 5.10a in the 1992 edition.|
From: Reno, NV
Jul 3, 2013
Highly recommend the direct variation.
Pitch #2 starts with some beautiful hand jams through a committing bulge (5.8) followed by a steep ramp with more great hand and fist jams (5.8+) to a sloping ledge.
Pitch #3 starts with a committing layback or finger jam up a steep corner. Good hands but thin feet, it only last for about 8 feet. IMO 510a/b. Then there's a good rest followed by another nice but easier layback. Then a bunch of easy 5th to a great belay.
By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 24, 2013
|I found doubles of hand sized cams (green-blue camalots) useful for the standard route. 2 #4s are helpful as well if you want to sew it up. Of course, YMMV.|