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Wind Tower - SW Face
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Recon T 
Reggae T 
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Salvation T 
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Variety T 
West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

West Overhang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,927
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
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Mark Speiker Leads the crux roof of West Overhang ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route can be approached by climbing the first pitch of Calypso, Boulder Direct, Recon, etc... anything that takes you to the big ledge/ramp that leads down and south from the anchors atop of P1 of Calypso. This is another long-time favorite solo due [to the] nature of the route- big holds and big (but secure) moves.

Reach the ledge and move near its center to an alcove capped by a large brown roof composed of solid large flakes. Climb to the roof and clip a fixed pin (fairly solid) and back it up with a piece... then stem your way up and out, continuing to the top or to a [convenient] point of escape. After 60' or so, it is possible to [traverse] left to reach the fixed rap anchors above Boulder Direct, (shown in photograph) this is option is runout might be "exciting" for beginning leaders.

This route is clean, solid, and generally pretty safe. I've taken 1st timer's on it in tennis shoes, but seen a few leaders get puckered on it. It depends on your comfort level. Big holds, big moves... go for it.

Protection 

The route can be protected on a standard rack. The first crux is at a reasonably good pin and the other moves are pretty well protected with nuts and cams.


Photos of West Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Pete leading into the second pitch of the West Overhang (5.7).
Pete leading into the second pitch of the West Ove...
Getting ready to pull the crux roof.
Getting ready to pull the crux roof.
You can top out by following the route up and to the north from the West Overhang. The climbing grade is super easy, and the rock can be choss, but the view is worth it.
You can top out by following the route up and to t...
Mike Amato balancing up to the overhang.
Mike Amato balancing up to the overhang.
The start of the West Overhang (direct right of big block), and the start of the Bomb (second slot from the big block). Both routes climb 5.4 to the ledge.
The start of the West Overhang (direct right of bi...
Aaron starting the first pitch of the West Overhang (6+).  After the first few move the route cruises into 5.4 through the slot directly to the right of the big block.
Aaron starting the first pitch of the West Overhan...
Zoom in for detail. Action sequence of Pete cruisin' the West Overhang (unfortunately I got a little chalk on my lens, hence the white haze).
Zoom in for detail. Action sequence of Pete cruisi...
After the first few move the route cruises into 5.4 through the slot directly to the right of the big block.
After the first few move the route cruises into 5....
Hanging out at the overhang. <br />Photo: Roth
Hanging out at the overhang. Photo: Roth

Comments on West Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2014
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 8, 2001

When I did this route, I used the Rossiter 1st pitch that begins just right of the Big Boulder - 1 5.7 move maybe. then ran it out to the ledge. With this first pitch combined with the roof pitch, the climb was quite enjoyable for the grade. Very good symmetry on the two pitches as the "tough" climbing is at the start on both and you can fly the rest. With the rap bolts, made for a fast two pitches...I really liked the roof!
By Edward Jenner
Sep 3, 2002

The roof is certainly fun, worth doing if other lines are busy, and 5.7 if done correctly. I went up there yesterday without the guide book, didn't see the fixed pin and foolishly clawed my way up the left most crack (don't ask me why, it just somehow looked easier at the time). Should have looked at CB.com, the pictures below demonstrate the correct line and use of gear.
By Scott Thompson
Sep 3, 2002

This is an easy 7. If you're skeptical about it, go for it--the crux moves are over so quick, and it is good "roof practice" as the other moves on the route are so easy. The pin is not spectacular--half-driven angle (however solid looking and in good rock). I pulled on it pretty hard and one of the eyes flexed a bit; but the backup gear is good and the fall onto the pin if neccessary would be short. Fun route, well worth doing if waiting for other routes on the Wind Tower.
By pete cogan
Oct 7, 2002

The first move, right of the huge block, goes straight up a crack and seems a lot more difficult than 5.7. I placed a piece in the crack, but moved right and climbed up and over the bulge -- which had no pro, but was definitely moderate.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 12, 2002

I'm tall and found the secret handhold high in the crack to the 5.7 start right of the boulder. felt easier to me but might be a 5.7 if you are under 6'
By Tonya Clement
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2003

We climbed on 3.23.03 - Ouch....I am 5'2" and I found the start to the right of the big boulder to be down right frightening...BUT...thanks to one very patient belay partner who was confident I could do it, having done it before himself, I got through it. It took three pieces of gear, 30 minutes of thinking about it (okay, maybe 45 minutes), and 100% confidence in my feet because I couldn't reach any hand hold. In a way, I think it might be safer for the leader than the follower given the stretch in the rope. Once you pull through the crux there is a lot of relief and the sweet satisfaction of accomplishment. Go do it...it is fun.
By Gabe Anderson
Apr 21, 2003

Great fun. I start angling right to the pin and then climbed back left to a comfortable stem. Plenty of holds. (I'm 5'9"). It was a great feeling to pull over the roof on lead.
By Brendan Sheehan
May 18, 2003

The start of P1 could be awkward for shorter leaders, if the obvious handhold is out of reach. The roof seemed reasonable, with big positive handholds, and well-protected with piton plus gear. A 50m rope JUST get you from the bolts at the top left of P2 to the top of P1. The second rap is from slings around a short tree 15 feet or so below this point, so with one 50m you have to downclimb this easy but somewhat exposed section between raps. From the tree, a 50m goes to the ground with a little rope to spare. I think one double rap on 2 50s may go barely to the ground from the bolts, but might cause hassles with getting caught when pulled.
By Adam Hicks`
Oct 28, 2003

Frickin' giant holds on the roof! I was having a bad, headachey day when I climbed this, and really didn't want to muster any energy for difficulty, so was lucky to find every hold through this roof as big as a handlebar. The feet are stonker to boot, making this a fairly easy lead.

However, I went up the dihedral once over the roof, all the way to the top where I encountered an unprotectable 5.2-5.4 face (easy) over which was a spacious ledge on the southeast side of Wind Tower. In other words, I missed the rap anchors and climbed above the walk-off ledge. Seeing an opportunity for adventure we scampered up the scary upper face at about 5.4 s (best done as a solo anyway, so I hear). Watch out if you do this as every hold is loose and protection sparse. Takes you to the summit with 10 feet to spare on a 200 [ft].
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 28, 2003

Good.... I'm not the only one to have climbed past the rap anchors at the top of the second pitch.
By Joseph Proulx
Jun 1, 2004

Good route for a beginner leader - I belayed a friend of mine on his second trad lead. There is good gear at the (early) crux on each pitch, and practically no danger of falling after that.

Watch for falling ropes: Ropes thrown from the rap anchors will fall where you want to belay for the second pitch.

The tree just up and right of the big detached block has fallen down into the line of the route on pitch 1, making it a bit unpleasant.
By Kevin Craig
Apr 3, 2007

Note that there's a new 2-bolt rap anchor near the top of p1 of The Bomb just below the big mid-way ledge. This replaces the tree rap anchor that's been used to rap from the big ledge in the past. More info is on the main Wind Tower page.
By Merlin
From: Grand Junction
Apr 20, 2007

Fun little roof, seemed so juggy that it would be more of a 5.6 (and I'm definitely under 6') and protected well with hand-sized cams.

I wouldn't aim to do this as a destination climb as it is a one or two move wonder before getting very easy. It is worth doing if you already climbed on the Tower and hit it on the rappel down as escape from Calypso drops you right at its base.

Kevin - Thanks for the chains, I've been up there with people who hate the down climb to the tree.
By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can add some symmetry to this route by changing up the second pitch. Once we cleared the 5.7 roof with the fixed pin, we led up and right and did the 5.8 roof at the end of Lemmings. Highly recommended.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 14, 2010

One of the best free solos on the Wind Tower.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One of the better intermediate routes on the Wind Tower. Two leads, second is harder than first. A nice after-work climb in Summer.
By Canon
Jun 30, 2011

After finding the jugs above and pulling over the very well-protected roof on P2, the rest is a breeze. I also cruised past the anchor for The Bomb and scrambled down and left to it on easy 4th class terrain. Whomever said this is a great confidence builder for someone breaking into 5.7 leads is right!
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 11, 2011

Did this route today and it was fun, but I think starting just to the right of the big boulder creates too much rope drag at the roof and above. If you were to start this out on "The Bomb", I think it would be a more enjoyable climb. It's not like the first part is any more difficult than The Bomb anyway.
By Tits McGee
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed the first pitch of Recon to the base of the overhang. Seems like the best combination for two fantastic moderate pitches. Eliminates the Traverses of both routes, which is nice.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route! Yes, the route is steep, but the gear is good throughout, and the jugs just keep coming! Don't miss out on the Lemmings' roof further up either, way more exciting than the easy corner above the West Overhang. A single 60m will then get you down in two raps from the anchors atop P2 of The Bomb.
By Dominic Rickicki
Jun 16, 2014

Did this first pitch of this on accident, thought I was on 'The Bomb' but appears as though my impeccable route finding skills failed me once again. Overall, it was very fun though, the first move is definitely a little awkward but pretty satisfying. After that, it's a fun runout to the belay ledge on simple 5.4 slab. The dead juniper in the middle of the depression is kind of annoying though. Definitely glad I made the mistake.
By Dominic Rickicki
Jul 11, 2014

Did the second pitch today, super fun. Linked the first pitch of Recon to the second pitch to avoid the low quality first pitch of this climb. I'd call the second pitch of this climb 4 stars. It's not often you get a 7 this steep and fun.