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West Lark T 

West Lark 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Roy Gorin, J. Hudson, William Dixon, and Ellen Wilts, 1954
Page Views: 2,863
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: The Vogel guide start for West Lark. Climb the cra...

Description 

This is the most obvious of the three “Lark” climbs, and the least sustained. It follows well-defined crack systems. Start about ten feet to the left of the North Buttress and climb a crack for two pitches. Traverse a few feet right to another crack system and follow that for several pitches to its end. It becomes a prominent right-facing corner, with some well-protected small overhangs being the crux of the route. At the top of the crack system, continue up a chute to the top.


Protection 

standard rack



Photos of West Lark Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at pitch 5 of West Lark.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 5 of West Lark.
The view of West Lark from just below the talus field on the North approach trail.  This shows both finishes: straight up and off to the left.  Loose rock at the top!
BETA PHOTO: The view of West Lark from just below the talus fi...
I finished West Lark well left of the regular finish, still 5.5. Look for a cool 10in wide handlebar of granite.
BETA PHOTO: I finished West Lark well left of the regular fini...
Comments on West Lark Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Aug 27, 2007

I enjoyed this route. We did it in 6 pitches (counting the final mostly 4th class run up the chute). I thought the pitch 3 traverse into the crack was fantastic as well as the 3 small roofs on pitch 4. There were lots of loose blocks near the end of the chute at the top.

By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

We did this route in 5 and a half pitches using 60 meter half ropes. We took the gap at the left up top because it looked a lot cleaner, and it was.

All and all, it was a fun and easy route.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 18, 2010

A fun easy route. Sunny until 4pm today, so don't expect shade just because it faces north.

Attempting to link pitches on this wasn't much of a success (for us anyway); easy, comfortable belays are not plentiful on this route, so probably best to stop at the decent spots and take your time. It's a nice route with a few pleasant surprises.

By Tradoholic
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Vogel has a very different line for this climb in the guide that I found enjoyable and accurate. I will post a pic of the start.

Basically, climb a crack then traverse left on ledges to a right-facing corner system. Buy the guide and follow the topo to do this climb. THE OP DESCRIPTION ABOVE IS NOT ADEQUATE.

By Climb To Safety
From: california
Jul 4, 2013

Did the climb on july 3, 2013, had the entire route, and possibly even the rock to ourselves. Great route, but we climbed some sort of variation, none of the pictures or beta i see on mountain project or elsewhere looks like the climb we did. Forget the guide book on this one, just pick a route and go for it, the climbing is easy.