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West Gully

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Charon's Boat 
Dragon Direct 
Knight of Swords 
Merlin's Enigma 
Sorcerer's Apprentice 

West Gully 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.

Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


The West Gully lies just beyond the Wall of the Goddess. It is a steep gully with no established trail. Be careful scrambling in this area, as there is some loose rock and bushes to deal with.

Richard Rossiter established five routes here in 2005.


A. Merlin's Enigma, 11+, 1p, 4 bolts. V-dihedral to roof.
B. Charon's Boat, 9+, 1p, 3 bolts. Corner to hand traverse.
C. Knight of Swords, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face by big boulder.
D. Dragon Direct, 9, 1p, 70', 2 bolts & gear to 2".
E. Sorcerer's Apprentice, 7+, 1p, 3 bolts, optional gear.

Getting There 

Continue left past the Wall of the Goddess and drop down to a pile of boulders. The West Gully rises immediately to the right.

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Gully:
Knight of Swords   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in West Gully

Featured Route For West Gully
Charon's Boat starts on the face right of Merlin's Enigma.  You can place pro in the horizontal finger crack between the second and third bolts before committing to the finger traverse left.   <br /> <br />The third clip is a stretch, and could be difficult for shorter climbers.

Charon's Boat 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : West Gully
Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the Third Tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders. Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof. The route ascends the right side of the arete just right of the right dihedral, about 30 feet right of Mystery Ship. Climb straight up past two bolts, then finger traverse left (very cool). Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then work straight up to a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor. Lower off....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of West Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...
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